openinverter forum

TheSilverBuick wrote: ↑Fri Oct 28, 2022 3:06 pm That looks nice, definitely hurts they changed the color on you.

second, time they've done that to me

so in an attempt to mount the driveline proper I headed on over to my local hardware store called ACE Hardware for SIX new bolts (I figured since they will spin in circular formation, having them all be the same would be swell)


ah yup $4 bucks per bolt (that' not counting the fancy nut) the Matrix M12s were $7 bucks each

can you guess how many bolts the store had?

so reluctantly I jumped in the six four and rolled down to another ACE hardware store, yes just for one bolt, (this one in a yuppie [ahem] posh part of town) there's a reason why I tell you this, check out their prices for the exact same bolts

and just like that, the 17th drive shaft fits perfect, easy peasy

re energized with AWESOMENESS I decided to resume the search for the iBooster pigtail

super thanks to Lars for the iBooster wiring diagram

however BOSCH goes out of their way to make a connector so encapsulated that no one can tell which wire goes to where, so The Greg (and don't ask me how I did it) had to liberate the cover off of it to take a peek looksie inside

so as per EVCreate's constructions one of the first things that needs doin' is we have to marry the small plug to the big plug. I think the small plug is for the brake pedal sensor which basically tells the brain of the iBooster how far down we pressed the pedal, so it knows how much assistance to provide, correct me if I'm off base


in my case (2018 Honda CRV) the wires colors matched, so I took four wires from the little plug (brown, yellow, light blue, and greenish) and soldered them to their matching counterparts off of the big plug, only the light blue and brown twisted together were questionable as I thought that may have been the CAN Bus, but what evs


Note To Self: send a Christmas card to the eBayer who cut the big tails just long enuff to reach each other! thank you ma'am

tell me The Wife is out of town, without telling me the wife is out of town

I knew you had a thing for harnesses but wasn't aware it was that excessive

johu wrote: ↑Sun Oct 30, 2022 3:36 pm I knew you had a thing for harnesses but wasn't aware it was that excessive

ha ha, these are the carcasses of the remaining Lexus GS450h harnesses which I am harvesting for some quality automotive wire to extend my Tesla(ish) brake iBooster in order to get my ($300 bucks) moneys worth

will The Greg beat The General to see who will build an electric GMC first?

and is it me or are they contradicting themselves in terms of the arrivability date?

GMC has given the first look at its upcoming all-electric Sierra Denali pickup truck (arriving early 2024), previewing the truck’s electrifying grille and exterior lighting sequence.


The electric Sierra, which will launch in the popular Denali trim, will be the third all-electric vehicle in GMC’s portfolio after the GMC Hummer EV Pickup and GMC Hummer SUV (initial availability early 2023).

The Greg gets my vote

Jack Bauer wrote: ↑Tue Nov 01, 2022 3:51 pm The Greg gets my vote

and there go my plans for hibernating this winter

Captain's Log, Truckdate: 385.7 having drawn the short straw I had to sit there in the plush front driver seat and pump and hold, and pump, pump and hold, and or pump, pump, pump and then hold the brake pedal while my friend got to roam freely and stretch out on the cool concrete floor and bleed the brakes at all four corners fortunately I had my iPhone with me, which I used to keep myself updated of [American] football scores

the two men crew faced two challenges:

1. having neglected to properly bleed the Honda CRV iBooster master cylinder to begin with the pedal would start off in a firm position but then eventually drop / sag to the floor

2. having wired the iBooster and connectized it to a regular 12 volt car battery they were getting the power assist but the pedal would wiggle, jiggle, wobble when fully depressed

Bleed us down, Scotty





The Bleed-O-Matic 9000

with the first problem solved, it was time to throw some money at the second problem (as per EVCreate's advice)


"iBooster in cars with rear drum brakes

When installing an iBooster in a car that originally has rear drum brakes often some more modifications are needed. Master brake cilinders for cars with (rear) drum brakes have an internal residual valve. Master brake cilinders for cars with four discs don’t or one with less pressure. Therefore adding an inline 10 lb residual valve is recommended. It prevents the drum brake springs to retract the brake shoes all the way back and thus reduces pedal travel and improves brake pedal response feel. Both position A and B in the below diagram are valid for the residual valve." lars@evcreate.nl

a few days later....

also a few days later....



yes, a zip tie was involved, don't judge me it's temporary

SBUT (Super Boring Update Time)

well that Honda CR-V brake ibooster is kicking our butts (mine and my trusty brake bleeding friend's Patrick's)

even with the residual valve installed the pedal still wiggles when fully pressed down and the master cylinder makes rhaataaata sounds, and Patrick thinks the master cylinder is faulty and leaks, something we observed with the long clear brake fluid hose going way up in the air from the fluid reservoir is that for some reason the fluid sometimes goes up the tube, that has to be strange indeed, so I did what I'm best at, I decided to throw more money at the problem and purchasized this ($406 dollar new master cylinder from the stealership) for $80 bucks used on eBay (cause common sense tells us you always replace a bad 4 year old used part, with another used part, but this one 5 years old)


and now we wait...

Little tip for bleeding brakes: When the brake master cylinder is used, there can be corrosion inside. If you depress the pedal much further than it usually travels, you might push the seal over the corrosion and therefore destroying it.
So for bleeding it might be a good idea to put a block of wood or something under the pedal, to stop the pedal from maxing out.
Or use vacuum bleeding instead of the pedal pushing.

crasbe wrote: ↑Mon Nov 07, 2022 5:08 pm Little tip for bleeding brakes: When the brake master cylinder is used, there can be corrosion inside. If you depress the pedal much further than it usually travels, you might push the seal over the corrosion and therefore destroying it.
So for bleeding it might be a good idea to put a block of wood or something under the pedal, to stop the pedal from maxing out.
Or use vacuum bleeding instead of the pedal pushing.

danke, much appreciated, we tried controlling the pedal just with our feet and not going all the way down, but I am sure we floored it like you are saying an probably jacked it up

but I'm done boring you with bolting up ancillary foreign parts to this American truck, you did not come here to see Honda brakes, or Prius steering, you are following along because we are doing an Electric Conversion damn it, so...

I went out and bought a new tailgate


a prioritizer I am not fellas !

At least they didn't paint it silver for you

mjc506 wrote: ↑Mon Nov 07, 2022 7:56 pmAt least they didn't paint it silver for you

I think I just cracked a rib laffing at that comment