openinverter forum

Maybe you cut the OEM cables in the middle, fit a copper ferrule on each end and crimp the extensions to it. Of course you need to put the joints in sleeves and orange tubing...

Or you could take a rigid copper tube and bend it to shape. Then crimp the OEM cables to it directly.

arber333 wrote: ↑Wed May 04, 2022 6:36 am Maybe you cut the OEM cables in the middle, fit a copper ferrule on each end and crimp the extensions to it. Of course you need to put the joints in sleeves and orange tubing...

Or you could take a rigid copper tube and bend it to shape. Then crimp the OEM cables to it directly.

thank you for that suggestion, I have a second battery pack I am about to open so I can harvest some cables from there also, and for the time being for testing purposes I tried the Anderson connectors but not for cell module to cell module connections but for battery pack to charger or battery pack to converter type of temp hook em ups

and as you may have heard my SSD (computer hard drive) failed last month and i LOST all of my EV pics and Notes but somehow today on Google Drive I found this pic from Sir Artur my EV blood brother and mentor on this project, and here is how he pulled it off with one OEM set of orange twizzlers

the boy is smart, that's for damn sure

no I didn't just spend 4 hours drilling two holes in the most unreachable of places, who in their right mind designed these silly frame extensions?!?!

Gregski wrote: ↑Tue May 03, 2022 4:51 am only 18.2 kWh as these packs are only 9.1 each, by my guestimate 18.2 kWh times 3.5 miles per kW will give me roughly a 63.7 mile range, and my goal is 100 miles, so one more of these packs under the bed and I'm golden

That might be a bit optimistic... You can only really use 75-80% of that capacity, and that was when they were new. I'm starting to worry about what I'm going to achieve in my little Panda with just 5 of these modules... The later packs have 34Ah modules, which is my fall back plan but an expensive upgrade...

Loving your write-up by the way! Keep going! Inspiring me to just get on with it and stop faffing.

OutlandishPanda wrote: ↑Fri May 06, 2022 6:12 am

Gregski wrote: ↑Tue May 03, 2022 4:51 am only 18.2 kWh as these packs are only 9.1 each, by my guestimate 18.2 kWh times 3.5 miles per kW will give me roughly a 63.7 mile range, and my goal is 100 miles, so one more of these packs under the bed and I'm golden

That might be a bit optimistic... You can only really use 75-80% of that capacity, and that was when they were new. I'm starting to worry about what I'm going to achieve in my little Panda with just 5 of these modules... The later packs have 34Ah modules, which is my fall back plan but an expensive upgrade...

Loving your write-up by the way! Keep going! Inspiring me to just get on with it and stop faffing.

thanks, and I hear you, and look forward to testing, I'm just that type of guy that calculations and computations are nice and neat but too many times in my life experiences there is nothing like just getting out there and testing, having said that my numbers are backed up(ish) by Sir Artur Kustusch and his beautiful Jag conversion running the exact same motor and battery pack.

I was going a bit crazy toggling between Arduino codes for this and Arduino codes for that on my lonely Arduino Due board, so I decided to buy one dedicated to CAN bus(ing) from EVTV

Gregski wrote: ↑Fri May 06, 2022 12:50 pm I was going a bit crazy toggling between Arduino codes for this and Arduino codes for that on my lonely Arduino Due board, so I decided to buy one dedicated to CAN bus(ing) from EVTV

For CANbus DUEing you can use the code here... I developed it from EVTV Collins code.
There should be the code for Volt gen1 charger and DCDC. Note DCDC code starts when you apply Enable (ignition) pin. For simplicity you could make that pin pullup and provide rela to invert signal from ignition. So when you provide 12V signal you get GND signal on Enable pin. That way digital pins are protected from 12V! Then this should be the last code i made for my DUE. It has multiple chargers as well as AC compressor and heater from outlander. This should work for you if you replace the CAN IDs and byte values. I even tried to implement watchdog... Note that there is an option of using several chargers in turn. They just need to have different IDs.

tell me you're done with Fab without telling me you're done with Fab

finally... no more Purple (sorry Prince, R.I.P.)

the transmission crossmember also got sum red luv in our outdoor free range organic make shift paint booth

Bonus Points for clever use of not only exhaust pipes but exhaust U clamps, not like we're going to be needing them again

while waiting on the paint to dry I recorded this

so, tell me you have an 'merican pickup without telling me you have an American pickup

Nobody: What caliber is it?

Me: .270 Winchester cartridge first introduced as early as 1925 so it's going on a 100 years and it's still in production

Have you checked behind the seat for the rifle?

Gregski wrote: ↑Wed May 11, 2022 3:13 pm Nobody: What caliber is it?

Me: .270 Winchester cartridge first introduced as early as 1925 so it's going on a 100 years and it's still in production

Did you find the bullet in the rear seats too?
Here in the EU we mainly joke about finding rotten sandwiches between the seats not ammo...

so I made the frame black and I love how it turned out and how clean and shinny it is

Factory fresh.

fiddy shades of gray

What do you want to do with the gas filling opening and the space for the gastank?

muehlpower wrote: ↑Sun May 15, 2022 9:05 amWhat do you want to do with the gas filling opening and the space for the gastank?

at 5'11" and a half, I like to pretend that I'm tall so I sit further back, therefor I am installing custom bucket seats and not going with the original bench seat that this truck came with, so the space behind the seats where the fuel tank hung will be used up with the seats and maybe some storage for a banana or two

as far as the fuel filler inlet hole, I still haven't decided if I will weld that up or actually use it as a charge port

did you have some ideas?

Optimus Prime

Setting yourself up for the Primus trifecta.

so let me tell you about my First Setback and you tell me if I am entirely at fault. I may have broken my Chevy Volt first gen DC-DC converter.

I know I looked up the input connection to make sure I had the positive and negative correct, I have the PDFs to prove it

observing the polarity from above I installed a 20 amp fuse on the positive wire, or what I thought was the positive wire

but look what GM did to the intermediate wire that runs from the Converter to the high voltage Battery Pack