Taking apart the Nissan contactor (Panasonic AEV6505A)
Posted: Wed Oct 06, 2021 2:42 pm
So 2 weeks ago I welded both my contactors by switching them on without precharging. They were then permanently closed.
So I decided to take a look inside
So, the connection to the top is removed first. Its two short right angle bus bars. Then the actual contacts into the relay are exposed.
The contacts are inside a ceramic hull. Strangely it says "120A". Is that the rated continuous current? The fuse is 3x that. Hmm.
The inside of the top shell contains some magnets to divert arcs away. So the relays should be able to interrupt substantial current without damage.
Now some brute force was needed to get inside the ceramic. Vice helps. Indeed the copper bar was welded to the copper poles. You can see the circular burn mark on the connector bar.
Current is conducted via this roughly 5x2mm copper bar. The actuator is spring loaded and moves by about 2mm. So 4mm spark gap in total when the relay is open.
So I decided to take a look inside
So, the connection to the top is removed first. Its two short right angle bus bars. Then the actual contacts into the relay are exposed.
The contacts are inside a ceramic hull. Strangely it says "120A". Is that the rated continuous current? The fuse is 3x that. Hmm.
The inside of the top shell contains some magnets to divert arcs away. So the relays should be able to interrupt substantial current without damage.
Now some brute force was needed to get inside the ceramic. Vice helps. Indeed the copper bar was welded to the copper poles. You can see the circular burn mark on the connector bar.
Current is conducted via this roughly 5x2mm copper bar. The actuator is spring loaded and moves by about 2mm. So 4mm spark gap in total when the relay is open.