openinverter forum

Jack Bauer wrote: ↑Tue Aug 30, 2022 8:51 am If only someone had demonstrated this 3 years ago .... oh wait :

It seems obvious now, looking at the still picture, which terminal is positive.
Have you ever watched a movie 2 or 3 times, and found plot details you didn't notice before? That's the way it is with these videos. It's so much easier to find details that are written down, like in the wiki, rather than having to go through hours of video over and over again to find these details. I puzzled over which terminal was which for a long time. I don't even remember how I found out the correct polarity.
I do appreciate you and all the other people putting in the time and effort to make this possible for me to get my project going. The electronics and programming are way over my head.

I hear you. And if I had time to document stuff better I surely would.

Mr. Bauer, I tip my hat to you!

For bypassing the boost capacitor bank we are not using the OEM connector:

POSITIVE (+) HV DC is on the LEFT
|
NEGATIVE (-) HV DC is on the RIGHT

james@N52E01 wrote: ↑Thu Jun 10, 2021 5:10 pm
They are pictured above in a test block with 35mm² shielded cable on the left and a 50mm² unshielded cable on the right which both form a tight fit.

You have 35mm2 (2 AWG) and 50mm2 (1/0 AWG) cable.
If I recall correctly the original shielded cable was something like 20mm2 (4 AWG) of copper.

What is the ideal cable size for this drive system at full load for 10 seconds?

Sorry for the slow reply, losing track of the notifications Ooh that’s quite an open ended question… depends what current you’re drawing which may be limited by your battery or other components. As a general ruIe I was always taught that if you multiply the cross sectional area of your wire in mm2 by x10, that will give you a rough guide to its current capacity
E.g. 20mm2 should be able to handle roughly 200A but again, there are different types of wire and they are manufactured to different standards so it’s just a rough guide