openinverter forum

Ok so i bit the bullet and went with the opensource inverter. I figured that its way more fun to share experience with you guys then
ending up with a software solutions which can't (or verry difficult) be tweaked anyway or used to its maximum potential anyway.
Also the primary reason (EMC) is not that valid anymore.

The Tesla software solution is very complex. The Drive unit wants to know GYRO data, Accelerations , it wants to know mass of the vehicle, drag figures. It wants to interact with the braking system etc. etc. etc.

Ok so off i went!

I opened up the assembly package and found the checklist of Johannes very nice.
It's a good way of knowing what has been tested.

Then i saw that there where some loose connectors in the foil.
But it was pretty straight forward with the paper added to it where they needed to go.
So off i started mounting the connectors.

Next phase was unscrewing the tesla board and de-soldering the current sensors well...that's another type of task!
I watched the movie of Damien a couple of times ("Hello Folks!" ) , about how he went at it, at a volume like if he was sitting next to me
I never work alone, always with Damien on the background

Ok so i did the best i could but i ended up that the sensors coming lose in the GEL.
Basically what happens is that the GEL heats up pretty quickly and then the sensors comes loose..well the pickup head so to say.

Now i need a material to bond them back in, any suggestions?
Or am i better of searching for a new sensor / other sensor?
How well would they resist heat?

Second thing i found while test fitting is the connector to the HV board is to tall, i read somewhere about it but couldn't find.
I asked Johannes about this already (per mail).

Hope you guys tell me some good news that i can buy a bonding material to stick them back in

Ok found the page about the current sensors.

viewtopic.php?f=10&t=77&start=25

With the type number: https://www.mouser.ie/ProductDetail/Mel ... DN4jl%2Fc=

Now for the material (aka SNOT) i have no clue what todo?
Would just house hold sealant work?
I don't want to use something rigid i guess?

would a gap-filling, thermally conductive mass like THERM-A-GAP GEL 30 a solution?

I will look it up looks like a perfect solution.

Do you know of something available at mouser?

Thank u for your input.

Mouser-Nr.:951-GF2000-60-50CC

Glad I was there in spirit:)

Ok well Damien nice that you joined.

It has tobe said that you have the proper tools and experience todo this task correctly after messing up some if i recall correctly.
For me it was not doable. I have now 2 too short sensors out of the "snot" and have no clue if they are still ok.
Offourse no pun intended You are doing a lion job its just that in my case don't have the hot air station and perhaps missing some skills..

I also discovered that the driver board connector is to heigh. and since my sensors are shorter now anyway filling it up with spacers is a nogo.

I found in the other thread (support TESLA) the part numbers and repeat them again to suggest a "NOOB replace" package.

IMHO we should add this to the kit as a optional NOOB package in the webshop.
It wont hurt putting the links to your tedious task video in the shop item description either.

I discovered/experienced that when heating up the sensors they easily let go from the snot.
So i think that by far the fastest and cheapest (if you value your own time) way of doing this swap is by just heating up the sensor wires with the iron and see the snot get gelly then do the other and then gently remove them with the board.

Solder the new sensors to the newboard (check the height of the sensor on the old board) and "kit/bond/glue" them in again.
10min. Job if you have the parts.

Mouser shopping list:

• 2x 482-91209LVACAA002SP (new current sensors);

• 1x 200-CES11201LD (24PIN 4mm height driver connector (instead of 8mm 3M one);

• 1x 951-GF2000-60-50CC (fill-up GEL);

Or instead of that not so cheap GEL perhaps just ordinary two dots of silicone kit?
When dry its non conductive for sure...

Cool will supply the shorter connector with new kits then. Current sensors are quite cheap so can just include them as well. Personally, I would just forego the gel, sensor is held in place by the PCB, right

My only issue with not fixating it a bit is that i don't fancy some kind of vibration / oscilation of the measuring head while on certain RPM's etc..
So i think a stable mount is better. The hot glue gun 2 drips?

In the process of ordering the sensors. Need to file special application.....

Well the sensor is programmable...



Default seems tobe 50mv/mT do we know the actual value in the Tesla unit / our application?

EV_Builder wrote: ↑Tue Nov 03, 2020 9:18 pm My only issue with not fixating it a bit is that i don't fancy some kind of vibration / oscilation of the measuring head while on certain RPM's etc..
So i think a stable mount is better. The hot glue gun 2 drips?

Yes, vibration can be a killer with copper leadframes. I've even had little SMT aluminium capacitors let go after a standard ISO automotive vibration test. Had to hold them down with silicone.

DaveH wrote: ↑Wed Nov 04, 2020 12:07 pm

EV_Builder wrote: ↑Tue Nov 03, 2020 9:18 pm My only issue with not fixating it a bit is that i don't fancy some kind of vibration / oscilation of the measuring head while on certain RPM's etc..
So i think a stable mount is better. The hot glue gun 2 drips?

Yes, vibration can be a killer with copper leadframes. I've even had little SMT aluminium capacitors let go after a standard ISO automotive vibration test. Had to hold them down with silicone.

When the diff in my LDU blew up, a leg of a capacitor on the 5v regulator circuit broke. After re-soldering I gave it a few dabs of hot glue for support. After removing the OE board on another LDU, tesla adds some goo to the capacitors from the factory.

EV_Builder wrote: ↑Tue Nov 03, 2020 7:16 pm Mouser shopping list:

• 2x 482-91209LVACAA002SP (new current sensors);

• 1x 200-CES11201LD (24PIN 4mm height driver connector (instead of 8mm 3M one);

• 1x 951-GF2000-60-50CC (fill-up GEL);

Or instead of that not so cheap GEL perhaps just ordinary two dots of silicone kit?
When dry its non conductive for sure...

Well i yesterday i recieved already the stuff after some back and forth with documents about those current sensors...export restrictions...

Anyway after telling uncle sam i won't do the world any harm with it they finally agreed to send it tome.

The lower connector was in backorder though...but since i already soldered up the one with the board i just started assembling.
Now, with new current sensors this is way more a straight forward build, i guess desoldering is a skill ansich. I still have the old sensors though..

Next Step will be powering on the board and check:

• the current sensors

• mounting a boiler element (or bulb etc..) in the HV feed line

• hooking up the motor

• start commisioning

will look up a video too

Whilst I was following Damien s video on how to do this task it was going well and the Current Sensor tails freed itself from the board -
Yay ! Not so good on second one though the tails actually pulled right out of the sensor itself. When I looked at it, just seems potted in with no contact. Anyone else done this and have I trashed it ? Or will these tails just push back in ?

They should push back in, they are just potted into the magnetic core. Makes me wonder if that might actually be the supreme method to swap them over.

Ive just went ahead and ordered 2 replacements from mouser so should be all good now, just panicked somewhat. But thats the great thing about the forum support.

Thanks

johu wrote: ↑Thu Dec 17, 2020 4:49 pm They should push back in, they are just potted into the magnetic core. Makes me wonder if that might actually be the supreme method to swap them over.

If you heat them up with the soldering iron you can leave them attached to the PCB and just gently remove them from the potting material.
Yesterday i received the correct high connectors, finally, are you sending those already out?
For 3 euro each i think you should just deliver new ones with the board, same for the lower connector as its reliefs the PCB from stresses.
Atleast an extra noob package containing them would be nice.

Any update regarding the soft compound for the current sensors? The GF2000-60-50CC seems to be out of stock everywheres. Anyone have a recommendation for what else could be used??

EV_Builder wrote: ↑Sun Dec 20, 2020 9:13 am If you heat them up with the soldering iron you can leave them attached to the PCB and just gently remove them from the potting material.
Yesterday i received the correct high connectors, finally, are you sending those already out?

I think I replaced that a while ago, shipping out the CES-112-02-T-D
I've also ordered 25 sensors (the maximum you are allowed to order...) and will add them as an option soon.

EDIT: just realized I answered a 2 year old post

johu wrote: ↑Tue Apr 26, 2022 7:16 pm I think I replaced that a while ago, shipping out the CES-112-02-T-D

I've also ordered 25 sensors (the maximum you are allowed to order...) and will add them as an option soon.

Good, good!

johu wrote: ↑Tue Apr 26, 2022 7:16 pm EDIT: just realized I answered a 2 year old post

What can i say?

(i'm a champ on that.... )