openinverter forum

The board uses 42V 2A mosfets in locations IC3,IC1,IC6,IC4,IC2 and I'm wondering if the voltage rating needs to be that high, or if I could use ones rated 30V 5A instead. These are the closest in value that I could find at Mouser in the SOT-223 package, otherwise I wouldn't bother to ask....
Here's a link to the ones I can get
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Ta ... 7ysg%3D%3D

Looking at the schematics, those Mosfets only control whatever you connect to them through the main input connector. Thus , it depends on what you want to connect to them. But if you are only using 12V components, a 30V rating should be ok. Just make sure they work with 3.3V gate voltage from the STM32.

Hello,
I have an inverter from a 2013 Prius C. It looks exactly like the ones Damien uses, but I have seen some people say that this board is only compatible with 2010-2012 inverters. Does anyone know something regarding this?
Thanks!

Ember wrote: ↑Thu Jun 30, 2022 2:56 am Hello,
I have an inverter from a 2013 Prius C. It looks exactly like the ones Damien uses, but I have seen some people say that this board is only compatible with 2010-2012 inverters. Does anyone know something regarding this?
Thanks!

For Gen 3 Prius boards, there are large and small boards. There is some confusion about which part numbers take which boards... we can see some info on the wiki:
https://openinverter.org/wiki/Toyota_Prius_Gen3_Board

If we look in the Prius-Gen3-Inverter project on Damien's github, there are regular boards and "small" boards. There are a few folks that have made the regular board work with the small inverter (Latuta EV on YouTube) by modifying the board.

I suspect your Prius C inverter takes the "small" board.

If you look at Damien's web shop, you can also see Yaris/Auris board, which I think is the "small" board. If you want to order a kit, I think this is the one to get (https://www.evbmw.com/index.php/evbmw-w ... ogic-board).

However, if you are looking for a dual motor board, I suspect so given which thread you are posting, I don't see one sold in the shop for the small inverter, so if you order a kit it might require doing what Latuta EV had to do, except in your case it would be for the dual motor logic board. Maybe Damien has small dual motor boards available, but not listed.

OK thank you. I already ordered the large dual motor board, so I am going to go back to the scrap yard to get an inverter that will work for me and sell the prius C one on eBay.

Hey all, I replaced C49 with a 10uf capacitor (as per wiki) on the dual board. How do I tell if my board needed that? Should I go back to a 0.1uf? Is it all the v1d boards?

The wifi on MG2 doesn't flash firmware or read parameters.

MG1 works fine. Also, I only have a blinking light on MG1...

The attached picture shows the solid LEDS.

The blinking one is LED4.

I burnt out my L2 Inductor (well, hopefully that), I won't be able to do any testing until after I get some new inductors in the mail this weekend. So no hurry

Thanks,
widdershinscc

widdershinscc wrote: ↑Thu Jul 07, 2022 2:27 am Hey all, I replaced C49 with a 10uf capacitor (as per wiki) on the dual board. How do I tell if my board needed that? Should I go back to a 0.1uf? Is it all the v1d boards?

The wifi on MG2 doesn't flash firmware or read parameters.

MG1 works fine. Also, I only have a blinking light on MG1...

The attached picture shows the solid LEDS.

The blinking one is LED4.

I burnt out my L2 Inductor (well, hopefully that), I won't be able to do any testing until after I get some new inductors in the mail this weekend. So no hurry

Thanks,
widdershinscc

What version of the board are you using? Block 3? Block 4?

I don't see which version of the board had C49 as the wifi capacitor, but for the block 3 and block 4 versions of the board the caps are C58 and C86. You can see this for yourself on the schematics here and here.

On block 4, C49 is actually related to the oscillator. Also, on block 4, no modification is required as it has already updated in this revision.

So, if you have a block 3 board, you've changed the wrong cap. If you have a block 4 board, you didn't need to do this (and you've changed the wrong cap).

chrskly wrote: ↑Thu Jul 07, 2022 2:26 pm

widdershinscc wrote: ↑Thu Jul 07, 2022 2:27 am Hey all, I replaced C49 with a 10uf capacitor (as per wiki) on the dual board. How do I tell if my board needed that? Should I go back to a 0.1uf? Is it all the v1d boards?

The wifi on MG2 doesn't flash firmware or read parameters.

MG1 works fine. Also, I only have a blinking light on MG1...

The attached picture shows the solid LEDS.

The blinking one is LED4.

I burnt out my L2 Inductor (well, hopefully that), I won't be able to do any testing until after I get some new inductors in the mail this weekend. So no hurry

Thanks,
widdershinscc

What version of the board are you using? Block 3? Block 4?

I don't see which version of the board had C49 as the wifi capacitor, but for the block 3 and block 4 versions of the board the caps are C58 and C86. You can see this for yourself on the schematics here and here.

On block 4, C49 is actually related to the oscillator. Also, on block 4, no modification is required as it has already updated in this revision.

So, if you have a block 3 board, you've changed the wrong cap. If you have a block 4 board, you didn't need to do this (and you've changed the wrong cap).

Ah, I see now. On the v1c board, it was C49. I've added a table on the wiki, based on the schematics in github, listing which boards need an update.

chrskly wrote: ↑Thu Jul 07, 2022 3:26 pm

chrskly wrote: ↑Thu Jul 07, 2022 2:26 pm

widdershinscc wrote: ↑Thu Jul 07, 2022 2:27 am Hey all, I replaced C49 with a 10uf capacitor (as per wiki) on the dual board. How do I tell if my board needed that? Should I go back to a 0.1uf? Is it all the v1d boards?

The wifi on MG2 doesn't flash firmware or read parameters.

MG1 works fine. Also, I only have a blinking light on MG1...

The attached picture shows the solid LEDS.

The blinking one is LED4.

I burnt out my L2 Inductor (well, hopefully that), I won't be able to do any testing until after I get some new inductors in the mail this weekend. So no hurry

Thanks,
widdershinscc

What version of the board are you using? Block 3? Block 4?

I don't see which version of the board had C49 as the wifi capacitor, but for the block 3 and block 4 versions of the board the caps are C58 and C86. You can see this for yourself on the schematics here and here.

On block 4, C49 is actually related to the oscillator. Also, on block 4, no modification is required as it has already updated in this revision.

So, if you have a block 3 board, you've changed the wrong cap. If you have a block 4 board, you didn't need to do this (and you've changed the wrong cap).

Ah, I see now. On the v1c board, it was C49. I've added a table on the wiki, based on the schematics in github, listing which boards need an update.

Thank you very much! This has been very helpful.

The option I chose was: I have a block 3 board andi changed the wrong cap. And I MAYBE need to change the other hahahahaha.

I'll see if I can find a replacement for the one I got rid of... replace that and test out the wifi.

If I can flash after that, I will have additional information for the table in the wiki.

Thanks,
widdershinscc

It worked! But I'm continuing to have a power issue.ill try and go update the wiki soon with some more tidbits.



The 680 marked inductor gets hot. Sometimes get the whine. Sometimes not. Never get any lights (well, actually once since this started).

I was connecting to the IDC dupont connectors. Pin 1 12v in. pin3 for forward in also 12v. And then the ground on pin 11.

This happened after i removed the board to check solder points and when I went to plug it back in, my dupont connectors for were loose and shorted or something.

I saw a flash.

Anyway, now I'm having these symptoms. I though it was maybe fixed since it worked once.

Canthat big inductor go like mostly bad? (Marked 680 in the image). It's getting HOT.

Do I need to replace that? I feel like I might just be shorting or something. Could I have damaged my 34 pin IDC header? I have one od those. I can replace it.

Do I need to get that big inductor off and replaced? It doesn't test anything special. Ohms. But not big numbers. If I do, does it have some sort of rating? I have a 68uf one, but it's smaller. Of i can even desolder this terrible thing haha.

What can I check to trace this down. It's a little stochastic ( it worked twice)

I have redone my power connectors (yes, even the temporary ones. So it will be safe from not on.

I am at a bit of a loss where to start. Could the inductor be reveving too much input? It it unrelated? Should I redo my isc header?

Are there any common errors or ffsmage that may occur from poor application of the 12v to get it going?

Thanks,
widdershinscc

widdershinscc wrote: ↑Sat Jul 09, 2022 6:17 am It worked! But I'm continuing to have a power issue.ill try and go update the wiki soon with some more tidbits.



The 680 marked inductor gets hot. Sometimes get the whine. Sometimes not. Never get any lights (well, actually once since this started).

I was connecting to the IDC dupont connectors. Pin 1 12v in. pin3 for forward in also 12v. And then the ground on pin 11.

This happened after i removed the board to check solder points and when I went to plug it back in, my dupont connectors for were loose and shorted or something.

I saw a flash.

Anyway, now I'm having these symptoms. I though it was maybe fixed since it worked once.

Canthat big inductor go like mostly bad? (Marked 680 in the image). It's getting HOT.

Do I need to replace that? I feel like I might just be shorting or something. Could I have damaged my 34 pin IDC header? I have one od those. I can replace it.

Do I need to get that big inductor off and replaced? It doesn't test anything special. Ohms. But not big numbers. If I do, does it have some sort of rating? I have a 68uf one, but it's smaller. Of i can even desolder this terrible thing haha.

What can I check to trace this down. It's a little stochastic ( it worked twice)

I have redone my power connectors (yes, even the temporary ones. So it will be safe from not on.

I am at a bit of a loss where to start. Could the inductor be reveving too much input? It it unrelated? Should I redo my isc header?

Are there any common errors or ffsmage that may occur from poor application of the 12v to get it going?

Thanks,
widdershinscc

Have you checked the voltages at the different points on the board according to the "Checking voltages" section on the wiki to ensure your power supply is working?

Yes. Those were all low or no voltage. Voltages were fine prior to short circuit. I am not sure where a long line the issue is.

I'll double check those points again and try to trace it backward to see where stops being correct.

I've been thinking it may be the buck converter. I'm going to check for the proper voltage coming out of that also.

Turns out that it was a grounding issue or something. I disassembled, checked everything, fixed nothing, and then reassembled.

Now it works again.

I'm using a large board on the kind of inverter where I had to drill extra holes. I think I need to improve the ground conection on the now-unused screwhole in the upper left of the board.

Thanks,
widdershinscc

Hello everyone,
I bought a Block 4 V1d board from Damien a little while ago, and am currently soldering it up.
It came with some pieces unplaced which I am tryying to track down: I need IC17, C93, C91, D9, L7, R65, C92, and also L5 (this one could have fallen off when I was soldering the 90 for the wifi module next to it).
I know that C93 should be a 47uF 0805 6.3v ceramic cap
But for the others I could only find the BOM for the V1c on Patreon and on the github page.
I believe these parts could be determined from the schematic, but I am not familiar enough with design files to do this.

Wondering if anyone has the info for these parts or can steer me in the right direction?

Also, my board came with the Atmega 328p unpopulated, is there a certain orientation in which I should install this?

Thanks in advance!

I saw the V1c B4 files Damien released, from which I can determine the L5, L7, and R65 (should be the same parts for my V1d right?) but the V1c BOM did not have the info for IC17, C93, C91, C92, or D9. Wondering if anyone can help with these.
Thanks!

Ember wrote: ↑Wed Nov 23, 2022 9:00 pmI saw the V1c B4 files Damien released, from which I can determine the L5, L7, and R65 (should be the same parts for my V1d right?) but the V1c BOM did not have the info for IC17, C93, C91, C92, or D9. Wondering if anyone can help with these.

It's helpful when asking questions, to do as much work as possible for the people helping you. If you can't get the answer, do everything you are able to do, so it saves everyone time. Set it up so it's as convenient to answer your questions as possible. I.E. If you're referring to something, link it so they know exactly what you're looking at and exactly what you're stuck with. Then they have confidence to know you're both on the same page, and, since you can't solve your own problems, you at least put the convenience work in so it's as easy to help you as possible. I say that as someone who needs help a lot more than I'm able to ever help anyone else.

For example, I spent some time digging around Damien's webshop, I think I found the correct Github, I think I found the right BOM... I did a quick scan, didn't find it, and I'm already kinda hit the "I'll just do a quick check and see if I can help" limit I was going to spend on this. I'm not sure if I'm looking at the right thing so I'd feel dumb putting work in and it's not relevant. Also, there's a slim chance I'm able to help anyways.

If I was in your shoes, what I would do is open up the schematic, take a screenshot of it, find all the components you're missing, draw red circles around them so they're lightning-quick for everyone to find. Then upload that image on IMGUR or somewhere, link the file directly in your post, so anyone casually reading can see exactly what you're struggling with without even clicking on anything.

At minimum, that should get you your component values. Then you only have to figure out the context of the component (i.e. what type of capacitor, diode, etc).

I've been in exactly these shoes on a BOM (which is why I probably can't help). My advice is what I should've done at the time too, and didn't.

Most of this info appears on the schematic. C91 82pF, C92 10uF, IC17 MAX735CSA+, L7 10uH MWSA0503-100MT, D9 SS54B, R65 130K, L5 MH2029-300Y.

MattsAwesomeStuff wrote: ↑Thu Nov 24, 2022 8:37 am It's helpful when asking questions, to do as much work as possible for the people helping you. If you can't get the answer, do everything you are able to do, so it saves everyone time. Set it up so it's as convenient to answer your questions as possible...

Thank you for this advice, I will certainly use it in the future.

royhen99 wrote: ↑Thu Nov 24, 2022 9:20 am Most of this info appears on the schematic. C91 82pF, C92 10uF, IC17 MAX735CSA+, L7 10uH MWSA0503-100MT, D9 SS54B, R65 130K, L5 MH2029-300Y.

Thank you for the help, I wasn't sure where to look, but from this info I was able to deduce what I should be looking for on the schematic. I found parts that I think should work for all of the open locations on my board; in a couple weeks when they arrive and I have time to test them on the board, I'll post what parts I found that work in case anyone else is having the same issue.

Seems settled, so will close this one as well

Please describe new issues in a new thread with a descriptive title (I NEED HELP is not descriptive!). Do not put unrelated issues into existing threads that describe a different topic.