openinverter forum

Bryson wrote: ↑Sun May 24, 2020 5:27 am Bummer. I highly doubt there are hardware variances within part number + revs on the Tesla side so it would be interesting to isolate which ones are most compatible with the replacement board and which ones have issues. I’d bet a small sum that there’sa common denominator here

I have some ideas related to my situation that i've posted in this thread. My board mfg. company didn't install the c30 capacitor part of the reset switch circuit. They said the capacitor kept oxidizing. I was under the impression that it was only related to the physical reset button, so I've gone on without it, thinking I could power cycle the board to reset it. I don't think that is true, now. Check out my other post for the super-long-winded explanation of the idea. I'll be testing it later today -

viewtopic.php?f=10&t=78&p=11445#p11445

bulletbug wrote: ↑Sun May 24, 2020 3:07 pm

Bryson wrote: ↑Sun May 24, 2020 5:27 am Bummer. I highly doubt there are hardware variances within part number + revs on the Tesla side so it would be interesting to isolate which ones are most compatible with the replacement board and which ones have issues. I’d bet a small sum that there’sa common denominator here

I have some ideas related to my situation that i've posted in this thread. My board mfg. company didn't install the c30 capacitor part of the reset switch circuit. They said the capacitor kept oxidizing. I was under the impression that it was only related to the physical reset button, so I've gone on without it, thinking I could power cycle the board to reset it. I don't think that is true, now. Check out my other post for the super-long-winded explanation of the idea. I'll be testing it later today -

viewtopic.php?f=10&t=78&p=11445#p11445

V5 boards use a different CPU... lets try and keep this thread focused on V5

Kevin Sharpe wrote: ↑Sun May 24, 2020 2:48 pm

Bryson wrote: ↑Sun May 24, 2020 2:44 pm I’ll buy mine blind, cross my fingers, then reply whether it works nicely or not

If possible buy from a vendor with a returns policy so that you can return it if it fails your tests.

Sounds like a market for bootleg void stickers

I haven’t done much lately since my sledgehammer fix for a static environment is working for me. I’ll be working on this more and established a Github account for sharing. Nothing has been uploaded yet, but be sure to bookmark if you like letting smoke out.

https://github.com/jonvolk

Now we’re cooking.

HI Jon,
Can we download the software from you Github account, I am new to this, but I did but Gen 2 V5 board from Damien, I wan to start testing.
do we need to upload this software in the board ? do we use Linux to do that ? I have USB to Serial Cable

You'll need to upload the .elf or .bin file in the Debug folder with an ST-link. Same procedure as shown here.
With the file I have uploaded, you'll need an EVSE capable of at least 40 amps. Otherwise, youll need to make configuration files. The board from Damian should already have some version of software to familiarize yourself with how it all works.

Thanks Jon, do you think this adaptor would work, I have Tesla HPC , so i dont need to buy EVSE

https://www.amazon.ca/Tesla-Adaptateur- ... 44&sr=8-39

I havent messed with any Tesla to J1772 adapters at this point so I cant really comment.

Got my v5a board in (thank you Damien), soldered it up, and programmed/installed the ESP8266. I've noticed that on power cycling the board, none of my settings are sticking, it resets to defaults on every power cycle (power cycle via USB plug/unplug, I am not connected to a charger). I'm doing the 'q' quit to save to memory step, same process as Tom's simpBMS.

I'm still pretty new to embedded, although I can ham my way into the code to begin debugging, but I was wondering if anyone else is having the same issue before I go for it.

Default settings it returns to:

1 - Auto Enable : ON
2 - Modules Enabled : 123
3 - Can Mode : Master
4 - Port Type : 1
5 - Phase Wiring : 1
6 - DC Charge Voltage : 400.000000 0V
7 - AC Current Limit : 13A
8 - CAN0 Speed : 500.000031 0
a - Can Debug : OFF
b - EVSE Debug : ON
t - termination voltage : 400.000000 0V
q - To Quit Menu

Along with serial message:

Proximity Status : Unconnected /ADC Raw: 1023 AC limit : 0 /Cable Limit: 0 /Module Cur Request: 0 /DC total Cur:0.00 /DC Setpoint:400 /DC tVolt:400 /DC driven AC Cur Lim: 5000
24751 State: 0 Phases : 0 Modules Avtive : 0 OFF D1 L
Modules Turned OFF

The serial menu setting changes won’t retain for me either after a power reset. I only use it to debug and once I was happy with the settings, would just update the parameters in the code. I don’t know if that was intended behavior, but I don’t have any problems with that.

It is supposed to save

Good morning
I having problem with serial monitor or uart cable.I got no debug info.
i connect black-GND,orange-RX,yellow-TX,it open the monitor window (also in PuTTY)and stays empty.
baud is 115200

what can i do?

Try swapping rx and tx

Tryed! not better!!!

Was this after uploading code? If so, youll need to hit the reset button on the board or cycle power.

Its a tested board of Damien!

I no longer provide built and tested boards. It is a kit and is not a final product as stated on the webshop :
"BETA RELEASE FOR DEVELOPERS ONLY! DO NOT PURCHASE THIS IF YOU ARE NOT PREPARED / ABLE TO ASSIST WITH TESTING AND DEVELOPMENT! NOT A FINAL PRODUCT!!!"

1)You should have 2 red leds on the board.
2)You need to use a 3v3 level ftdi NOT a 5v level.
3)I have only tested with arduino serial monitor so give that a try.

I did load both boards with Jon's latest code and tested serial comms.

Sorry i took the wrong word!My english language is limited so it can happen like this.
I think i have the right cable ordered.
Will also try another computer and the second board!
If you see a wrong setting pls. let me know...

That all looks good. You should be seeing something on the serial monitor ...

You have the board set as an Arduino Uno when the chip on the board is an STM32F103C8T6.

kiwifiat wrote: ↑Tue Jun 09, 2020 2:32 am You have the board set as an Arduino Uno when the chip on the board is an STM32F103C8T6.

The serial monitor will work just fine regardless of that.

I'm fairly sure we don't have any stm32 software that compiles or uploads in the Arduino IDE, so the selected board doesn't matter.

I found out that the cable in the device manager is set to 9600 bps if i change to 115200 there missing some write for windows registry???!!
oh my god...

celeron55 wrote: ↑Tue Jun 09, 2020 4:59 pm

kiwifiat wrote: ↑Tue Jun 09, 2020 2:32 am You have the board set as an Arduino Uno when the chip on the board is an STM32F103C8T6.

The serial monitor will work just fine regardless of that.

I'm fairly sure we don't have any stm32 software that compiles or uploads in the Arduino IDE, so the selected board doesn't matter.

Correct, however the first image posted clearly shows the response of pressing "get board info" under the "tools' menu. That won't work unless you install the STM32duino files for the Arduino IDE. I would recommend Putty or RealTerm as better alternatives for a serial console over installing the Arduino IDE just for a serial monitor.

nesto1972 you do not need to worry about the baud rate setting in the windows device manager, the application using the com port will configure the port on the fly.

Folks, just want to check in here and ask is there anyone actively working on the V5 software? As if not I'll go off and pay someone to clean up the bugs. Its not fair on people buying the boards.

So far I have identified the following :

1)EVSE pilot read is very noise prone due to frequency of reads and lack of filtering / sanity check.

2)Parameters not saving to memory on menu close.

3)after a set number of fault resets, the board no longer restarts the power modules and requires a full power cycle to clear.

edit :

4)Wifi not updating.

Again, I'm not asking anyone to do this or finding fault just want to avoid duplication of effort and move this along.