openinverter forum

Try this. Set pinswap to pwm1and3. It actually swaps 2 and 3.

Hi Damien I can model up the PCB holder /sealing unit and get it 3d printed this weekend if you send me dimension for the opening in the inverter and PCB. Ironically I bought the printer to make up the high voltage connector to seal around the brass HV lugs on my is300h inverter( I have HV orange filament).

Is there any need to connect the negative battery cable through the weird hole? I think you only need one brass post there to connect the positive and use Toyota's intended terminal for the negative.

I'm not using a Gen3, I'm using a Gen2, so I don't have quite as much immersion into this and might not make the correct wiki edits. But, trying to contribute, so:

Timestamps / Details / Notes below:

0:00 - Intro, DC/DC 12v overview
4:00 - Voltage limits, resistor swap theory
12:22 - Desoldering resistors
22:52 - Ampseal/Ribbon Adapter Board
33:03 - Installing Ampseal on Inverter
39:52 - Battery Connection
55:00 - Outro

On Resistors:

Replace 2 sets of 4 resistors: old 120kohm with new 210kohm (1%, 0.5W, 0805, Manufacturer part#: ERJP06F2103V Farnell #: 2326773 )

Top side: R629, R627, R625, R623
Bottom side: R630, R628, R626, R624

If you can't do this yourself, call up a mobile phone repair shop in your town and ask them, this is easy work for them to do.

Capacitors? On Auris, they're 350v caps. But on Prius Gen 3, capacitors are 400v. Damien is going to risk using them near 400v. See future videos if this works or not.

29:20 - Damien messed up, silkscreen tells you to put the notch backwards on this V1 version of the board. Notch should be upwards (towards ampseal pins).

49:21 - Battery is not connected to normal battery terminals. Battery terminal measurements. Cap: 20mm diameter across, 6mm head. Shank: Both 16mm diameter, one 30mm long, one 40mm long. Through-hole: 6.5mm diameter. Dimensions not critical, different shank length just to help avoid terminals accidentally shorting.

Thank you for the video.
I look forward to every series with impatience. A lot of useful information.
p.s
Inside Aqua invertor - p165j350 and 156J35 capacitors

In wich format do you guys need a 3D model for a printing? I believe for this design we gonna need 90 degrees angle ampseal connector and plate placed horizontally.

Attached archive with *.stl file. There is a little mistake on picture, it is corrected in 3D model in archive.

konstantin8818 wrote: ↑Sat May 23, 2020 8:11 am In wich format do you guys need a 3D model for a printing?

Many thanks for sharing

Also I want to point out that I might missed the sealant groove dimensions. If anybody who will print it and place a sealant inside, let me know if it is an misalignment. I'll correct it.

What's the voltage range with the resistor divider change? I'm assuming the lower threshold is increased?

Brilliant. Thanks Damien. Resistors ordered, along with a finer tip for my soldering iron, some of that TechSpray braid, and some tweezers.

Konstantin - thanks for that 3D model too - I was planning to do that but you've saved me a job!

This plate, I've designed is literally a plate of plastic. It can be fabficated with simple drill and dremel. Too bad, I've got no ampseal socket on hand, and If I order one abroad, it will arrive too late for design testing.

konstantin8818 wrote: ↑Sat May 23, 2020 11:42 am This plate, I've designed is literally a plate of plastic. It can be fabficated with simple drill and dremel. Too bad, I've got no ampseal socket on hand, and If I order one abroad, it will arrive too late for design testing.

I have an Ampseal handy. I'll throw it on the printer now and let you know.

bobby_come_lately wrote: ↑Sat May 23, 2020 12:04 pm I have an Ampseal handy. I'll throw it on the printer now and let you know.

Much appreciated!

Doh! I am, as we say here, a numpty. Printed it out and realised I only have the Ampseal plug - the socket hasn't arrived yet.

Anyway, it looks good in situ (assuming I have it the right way around?) and the plug matches up very well to the hole. As soon as the socket arrives I'll test that.

Wrong way=) groove must contain a red sealant and face towards inverter=) Also socket must go thrue plate like this:

Aha! I did wonder. Reinstalled the right way around, with the seal.

bobby_come_lately wrote: ↑Sat May 23, 2020 4:06 pm Aha! I did wonder. Reinstalled the right way around, with the seal.

So how it sits? Does it fall off or hangs in? It is pretty soft so I believe when you tighten all bolts there is no gap left between plate and casing?

That's amazing guys:)

Many thanks to Damien,

the prius inverter now can be used with his board without changes, when using his customized Firmware.
viewtopic.php?f=14&t=488&start=60#p11328

I use the MGR connected straight connected pin1 to pin1 etc. and with syncofs=22100 it run's fine. I think the offset is necessary because the Prius defined U at pin2, that will be L1 at the motor, and from the inverter hardware ist is assigned to L2.
Up to now only in idle tested with low voltage (36V), in forward direction up to 4000 1/min and smooth in both directions.

MGR and MG2 wired the same, but with MG1 the phases are different.

Designation at the Prius inverter in the Toyota documentation is: pin1=W, pin2=U and pin3=V
Designation at the RX450h inverter in the Toyota documentation is: pin1=W, pin2=V and pin3=U
Designation at the MG2 and MGR in the Toyota documentation is: pin1=W, pin2=U and pin3=V
Designation at the MG1 in the Prius documentation is: pin1=V, pin2=U, pin3=W
Designation at the MG1 in the RX450h documentation is: pin1=U, pin2=V, pin3=W

konstantin8818 wrote: ↑Sat May 23, 2020 4:14 pm

bobby_come_lately wrote: ↑Sat May 23, 2020 4:06 pm Aha! I did wonder. Reinstalled the right way around, with the seal.

So how it sits? Does it fall off or hangs in? It is pretty soft so I believe when you tighten all bolts there is no gap left between plate and casing?

Fits fairly well. But printed in PLA there's a bit of bowing around the middle from the pressure of the sealant ring - see picture. I wonder if it would be better in ABS/PETG? Or whether it's worth stretching the mounting holes out a fraction of a millimetre to provide some tension?

Done a quick blanking plate for the old battery connector hole. Not fully tested yet - waiting on some 47mm o/d o-rings that should provide a snug fit.

bobby_come_lately wrote: ↑Sat May 23, 2020 5:38 pm Fits fairly well. But printed in PLA there's a bit of bowing around the middle from the pressure of the sealant ring - see picture. I wonder if it would be better in ABS/PETG? Or whether it's worth stretching the mounting holes out a fraction of a millimetre to provide some tension?

Maybe when ampseal socket will be screwed to plate, it will straighten it. Or maybe opposite
Anyways, I've made second version: with 10mm offset to make it more sturdy. Looks almost OEM

Some foc testing :

That is just ridiculous. I expected it would start in manual and wouldnt be stopped.
I would recommend you calculate your syncoffset + 45deg, just because it is an IPM.

It is strange, i havent yet seen motor offset higher than 15000. I think them engineers setup resolvers to first quadrant and then use the offset. I think if you find offset higher than that you need to swap your phases and resolver pinout.

Nice work D!

EDIT: Maybe Elon poles can be counted? Did anyone open the Model 3 motor yet? Pole count should be visible on stator. Then automakers use the same pole count on resolver. They are lazy not like industrial motors which have the strangest of resolvers....