openinverter forum

American Polack Potrafi

Pull-A-Parter 3000 complete kit with attachments also available in metric

and after all that if I had to do it all over again I would not waste my time pulling it apart I would just cut it right at the join of the two cylinders, in order to expose the shaft

alright so gears are turning in my head, this might could work

I seriously doubt that will work for very long outside the passenger cabin.

But, in California, there is no rain, so maybe...

Tesla Honda CRV Model 3 electric power brake booster about to go on

nothin' to it but to do it!


yeah I bake my own parts

still haven't done the brakes, but...

on this episode of Midnight Auto, we finally [start to] tackle the brake lines

Me: "well I better go finish them brake lines"

also Me: "look a box of random rusty bits!"

I think I need to put a BOLO out for another side mirror backing plate ?

wait is that sorta like saying ATM machine?

and now,

Racing Top Tip: in order to make turning left easier I run my right hand side, side mirror without the backing plate!

literally as soon as I took the bits above out of the oven I found the missing piece (at the bottom of the Atlantic)

Gregski wrote: ↑Tue Jul 12, 2022 5:34 am on this episode of Midnight Auto, we finally [start to] tackle the brake lines


IMG_4473.JPG

Must admit that I initially installed the brake lines that way.
However, I now believe swapping them would be the correct and preferred way with rear drum brakes.
If you swap them most fluid displacement will go to the rear in.
But I’m curious what you and others think since in the end you want most stopping power from the front discs but that is up to the valve to handle and residual pressure valve to support.

larsrengersen wrote: ↑Tue Jul 12, 2022 7:57 pm

Gregski wrote: ↑Tue Jul 12, 2022 5:34 am on this episode of Midnight Auto, we finally [start to] tackle the brake lines


IMG_4473.JPG

Must admit that I initially installed the brake lines that way.
However, I now believe swapping them would be the correct and preferred way with rear drum brakes.
If you swap them most fluid displacement will go to the rear in.
But I’m curious what you and others think since in the end you want most stopping power from the front discs but that is up to the valve to handle and residual pressure valve to support.

thank you for that feedback, really appreciate it, I think swapping those lines shouldn't be too difficult if need be, I believe that Honda CRV came with drums front and rear

good enuff for government work


and order has been restored

plumbing brakes like a Boss!


nice sweeping curves

yeah I forgot to put a fitting on my best run, don't judge me




did I mention the nice sweeping curves

I think once I clamputize them they won't look so wild

and I ran out of line, I guess 15 feet was not enuff, so I gotta buy another spool to do the rear drum brake line run, not all the way back to the rear axle just to the transmission crossmember

looks like my MOOG steering linkage parts from Rock Auto are on a US tour complements of FedEx

MASPETH, NY

KEASBEY, NJ

SNYDER TWP, PA

PORT CLINTON, OH

CHICAGO, IL

COUNTRYSIDE, IL

CAMDEN, MO

HIGGINS, TX

ENCINO, NM

NAVAJO NATION, AZ

NEEDLES, CA

BAKERSFIELD, CA

STOCKTON, CA

Shipment exception
Weather delay

so I decided to install the new old steering column in just for mock up of the Prius electronic power steering


now we can determine the distance the Prius power steering mechanism needs to fill from the Chevy point A to the Chevy point B type of thing

I'm playing catch-up on your project, with the rear driveshaft, why not use the fixed carrier bearing then take your rear shaft to a drive line shop and have them build a sliding 2-piece driveshaft with your driveshaft ends? Like a lot of front driveshafts are on 4x4's. That's how I'm envisioning doing mine. Fixed carrier bearing then sliding 2-piece driveshaft.

TheSilverBuick wrote: ↑Sat Jul 16, 2022 2:16 am I'm playing catch-up on your project, with the rear driveshaft, why not use the fixed carrier bearing then take your rear shaft to a drive line shop and have them build a sliding 2-piece driveshaft with your driveshaft ends? Like a lot of front driveshafts are on 4x4's. That's how I'm envisioning doing mine. Fixed carrier bearing then sliding 2-piece driveshaft.

these trucks came with proper drive shafts, I just had to find one, if you get the proper one then all you have to do is have the front half shortened and the Lexus three prong flange welded on it

the advantage of going my route is that you keep the durable / strong GM OEM center bearing support bracket / cross member in it's current factory location

hope that makes sense, and I know ZERO about four times fours, lol

big day today, hope to accomplish quite a bit, install brand new steering linkage, and get the radiator core support and inner fenders back on, among 7 million other little things, you know how it goes...


American version of the rack n pinion steering jobbie thingie

so with a help of a friend got the steering linkage on, the inner fender, and the radiator core support

then we took on the Prius power assist steering and decided to graft it into the GM intermediate steering shaft


this end goes to the stock GM manual steering box connected via what is called a rag joint

I do my own stunts

here we are re clocking the Prius gizmo