openinverter forum

Check the 26v supply to the current sensor.

25.7v with and without the current sensors plugged in.

Oh sorry I meant see if its getting to the wire on the sensor (red i think from memory) just in case you have a bad connection on the socket. The current sensors need to see +5v , -5v and 26v.

Red is 25.8V, Brown, Yellow, White, Green and Purple are 5V and Blue is -5V

Hmmm.....its getting the correct voltages so.

It's got me stumped, not that it takes much, I can't see see why. Only thing I can guess at is R41 being shorted out or maybe R45 being open? But that's only based on my basic understanding of resistor dividers.

I'll take a look at the schematic in the morning. Eyes are swimming from software right about now so time to wrap it up:)

Thanks I've measured the resistances of R41 (4.7k) R45 (infinite) R42 (4.7k) and R46 (4.7k)
R45 isn't looking good.

I guess it needs replacing, I've only got through hole to replace it with but I guess it'll do for now to prove or otherwise.

Sorted. Getting 2.5v now as expected.

Wow that weird. was it a duff resistor or solder joint?

Resistor it seems, can't get a reading from it. Glad it was easy to find.

Just about to start soldering up the partially built v1d board today. The missus very kindly “tidied” the office. I asked what happened to the tyco connector that a gentleman in Ireland very painstakingly removed from the original inverter logic board. She said, did you try looking in the vacuum / bin / cat? insert horrified meme here

In the BOM it says this connector can only be recovered from an existing Prius inverter logic board. In the Logic Board Installation Video which Damien made, he has a pre-packaged connector. Does this mean this connector is now obtaneum and does anyone have a part number for it please?

You mean bm50b-shlds-g-tft?
Check the diagrams on Damian's github

There are Chinese copies available from eBay:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/333122786729

I cannot confirm how good they are as I have brought some and have had issues.... Fitted one and am getting spurious voltage readings from the Arduino, tried to tidy up my bad soldering and made it worse! Tried on a second board didn't put enough solder on it put pulled off a couple of traces! Currently trying to find a solder guru! As I don't have many spare connectors or boards!

Awesome, thanks a million I’ll get one of those now and give it a try. Can’t pretend to be a solder guru but I have a soldering station and a pretty steady hand. Will let you know how I get on.

Would recommend the zoom glasses that Damian used in the video, despite that still managed to singe some of my hair!
Also very fine tip end for the iron is definitely needed.

Excellent video in Russian on connecting up the board. I have linked this in the first post also :

Brilliant! Just ordered a bunch of the chineseum connectors so that’ll come in handy when they arrive thanks. Made some progress on the programming front. V4.97 running on both MG1 and 2 and flashed the Olimex modules. The videos and wiki info have made it a lot simpler!

Bit stumped here. After I blew my pre-charge resistor, I switched to the Sine firmware for some testing. Noticed that even on start-up, fslipspnt was set to 0.53hz and ampnom was set to 9.53%. Tried setting them to zero. Fine. But as soon as I refreshed the page, they went back to 0.53/9.53. Tried saving the parameters. No change.

Removed the wifi module and hooked up serial cable. Tried manually setting those parameters. It says 'set OK' but when you ask it for them, they're still the same.

After some head scratching and with @Bigpie's input I wiped the chip with STLink and reflashed it with an older version of the firmware. Same result.

Anyone have any suggestions?

Hit restore default parameters button up near the top. You may have something like ampnom set too high.

Jack Bauer wrote: ↑Tue Jan 19, 2021 6:21 pm Hit restore default parameters button up near the top. You may have something like ampnom set too high.

Sorry should have mentioned that I tried that too. They still stay the same.

I noticed these exact same values today as well. Will go after it.

johu wrote: ↑Tue Jan 19, 2021 7:25 pm I noticed these exact same values today as well. Will go after it.

Brilliant. Thank you!

What's the CONN 5 solder jumper for? I've only shorted CONN 3 jumper and not getting an output from the DC DC when the board is powered up and I've done the resistor mod. ~320vdc on the low voltage side of the buck boost. I'm hoping I've just done something simple wrong.

Bigpie wrote: ↑Wed Jan 20, 2021 2:44 pm What's the CONN 5 solder jumper for? I've only shorted CONN 3 jumper and not getting an output from the DC DC when the board is powered up and I've done the resistor mod. ~320vdc on the low voltage side of the buck boost. I'm hoping I've just done something simple wrong.

Do you have a 12V battery connected to the DC/DC output and GND(chassie of inverter)? This is required to get the DC/DC to start.
CONN 5 is not needed for starting DC/DC.

I just had a volt meter connected to the 12v output and negative to inverter body. So it needs some voltage on there before it'll start?

EDIT

Just a 12v battery on at it remains at 12v so I think I've got some debugging to do.