openinverter forum

Motor mounts done now. Getting close. Still need to finish the battery box and tweak the charger mount and some wiring.

Pot Plot from VCU: Pot plot from Inverter Still think I'm having can bus issues, it's set to 10ms in the VCU.

Savvycan says:
Average inter-frame interval: 46.758ms
Minimum inter-frame interval: 9.966ms
Maximum inter-frame interval: 4.29496e+06ms

Any ideas/suggestions?

And we're rolling.

Great

Jealous! It’s the right colour but 30 years too young.

Congrats!

Congratulations but I hope you're not cheating and using an ebike controller like some other dodgy characters around here are doing.

Cheating a little, manually precharged with a light bulb, but using the prius inverter and a throttle pedal attached in the car.

Bigpie wrote: ↑Mon May 03, 2021 1:15 pm Cheating a little, manually precharged with a light bulb, but using the prius inverter and a throttle pedal attached in the car.

Huh! That's not my idea of cheating?

I spent a bit of time on Saturday hooking my Freelander throttle pedal to the ebike controller and I've already tested it with the EVBMW VCM. Can you use the Beetle throttle pedal for your conversion?

Yep, that's what I'm using. Still working on battery box, trying to get something I'm happy enough with. Can't wait to get bumper back on.

Bigpie wrote: ↑Mon May 03, 2021 8:03 pm Yep, that's what I'm using. Still working on battery box, trying to get something I'm happy enough with. Can't wait to get bumper back on.

I just started looking at the battery box yesterday. I've a LOT of work ahead.

Keep going you two. Watching and learning.

Regards
Stephen

After a couple of goes at a battery box, first time with a steal frame and fibre glass, I've now got the box built, with PVC sheets sealing it.
The front end is reassembled with the box in place. I've decided to have the contactors and fuse outside of the battery box.
Few more little jobs to do, cooling loop and a couple more brackets to make up, tidy some of the wiring etc.

I hope to add a second GTE pack at some point, so will likely look at getting the battery modules repositioned in the future, but just want to get something usable as soon as possible now.

Having trouble getting rolling again now. I still get a good angle plot if I lift one wheel up and turn it.
Motor makes no attempt to spin just wines, only difference is I'm not using full pack voltage and contactors (in run mode, pre-charge happens, main contactor closes when 'start' and pre-charge opens as expected, udc 347.21 V).
Will not spin in manual mode either with manual id and iq, pretty stumped at the moment, not changed anything with the motor/inverter

Motor is spinning again, not sure why, but also got the rev counter working.


I checked the MOT history and just before I bought the car it failed:

"Rear Brakes imbalanced across an axle Axle 2 (1.2.1 (b) (i))"
"Offside Rear Service brake excessively binding (1.2.1 (f))"
So I'm awaiting new pads and discs to be delivered, hopefully that and cleaning up some corrosion on the calipers will sort that. While there, I noticed some corrosion around that also needs addressing and a patch welding in on the sill.

Left to do to get driving:

• Fix Corrosion on sill

• Sort rear brakes

• Redo power steering pump bracket

• Wire in DCDC output

• Tidy wiring under the bonnet

Hopefully not too much longer now.

Sounds like a sports bike:)

Not sure why it's so loud, doesn't seem to vibrate, as soon as I have working brakes I'll take it for a little drive down the road and see if it blows up.

Repaired the rotted bit of sill, thankfully it's under the plastic arches so it doesn't need to look good.

Bad news is, I've lost rotation again

Still a few jobs left to do before MOT, but hopefully get them sorted in the next couple of weeks.
Motor seems a little weak, but hopefully it's just parameters that need turning.

Got 2 error lights on to deal with. It looks like I might have to do something different to @johu on the Tourran.

Do you keep your ecu connected? Then you can just use correct resistance instead of sensors and keep oil temperature in 90ies.
When i was trying to convince my Pug BSM(french ecu) that motor works i had to use coolant temp sensor with parallel resistance (ecu expected heated engine) otherwise it would throw DTC. It thought motor was out of coolant!
Also you can use your fuel level sensor to show SOC level or just show it 300R for EU cars.

I didn't keep my ecu, doh. I plan to eventually show soc on fuel gauge but for now, just get if of errors. Will have to do some research
*EDIT* Looks like PWM of some sort that I need.

Bigpie wrote: ↑Sat Jul 24, 2021 7:34 am Looks like PWM of some sort that I need.

Try 1Khz signal 5V or 12V and try varrying duty. Usually it is 1Khz 30% to 75% duty for fans and pumps, i see no reason it shouldnt work for sensors too.

I've found a bit more info, apparently there's a sync pulse then 2 further pulses, then width of them varies with temperature and level. Trying to extract more information.

Maybe I can disable it in the instrument like Johannes did, though the seem procedure doesn't work.