openinverter forum

Hello everyone, I joined so I could add the pictures of the new 1002633-00-U Base-Drive-Unit here for everyone. These were taken in an Orange County Tesla Service Center.

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blodg1 wrote: ↑Wed Nov 08, 2023 8:40 pm Hello everyone, I joined so I could add the pictures of the new 1002633-00-U Base-Drive-Unit here for everyone. These were taken in an Orange County Tesla Service Center.

Hi! Great photos. Could you possibly be able to take the coolant connection from the motor? We would sure like to see how it looks inside. If the coolant really has been blocked from the rotor or not.

We're building our own version of a "rotor coolant delete manifold". This one can be used either as a straight up coolant delete (like the Rev U drive unit), or oil cooling can be added on for the folks that want it. We expect to have production ready units in stock starting in January.
https://qccharge.com/collections/ev-par ... drive-unit

Is anyone collecting data on the coolant delete LDUs yet or too new? temps or longevity info?

I would like to share some information about my car. It is a 2015 P85D model LDU. Currently, it has covered 59,000 km. Unfortunately, the seal has leaked three times already. Since there is no service center in my country, I could not get the engine replaced under warranty. Fortunately, the coolant did not enter the inverter, and only the stator was flooded. By drying it, I was able to restore its normal resistance. After the second leak, we installed drainage and a three-lip Ceimin CTLBDYW seal to prevent further leaks. After driving 7,000 km since replacing the seal, an error message appeared indicating a low level of coolant. My measurements showed that over 2 litres of coolant had leaked out through the drain. Currently, there are no resistance errors and the car is running smoothly. I am now considering installing a bypass to prevent any future leaks.

peakay wrote: ↑Fri Dec 08, 2023 6:18 pm Is anyone collecting data on the coolant delete LDUs yet or too new? temps or longevity info?

Other than development parts, the only coolant delete manifolds in the wild are ones that Tesla has installed via reman units, so it's unlikely that we would have any information available to us (unless Alex/Tony/QCC elect to release such development information on their own manifold and testing, and I wouldn't hold my breath on that).

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Hello.

Need some help whit my rebuild.

1. What side off rotor should beavel shim be? Coolant or gerbox side?

2. Coolant side rotor bearing feels like it has spun in that bore. Can i gule this whit loctight? Or do anyone know what play bearing should have in this bore?

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howardc64 wrote: ↑Mon Feb 19, 2024 7:50 am diagram for another person that forgot

viewtopic.php?p=57800#p57800



Both of my rotor bearing has o-ring in the bore so no locktite was necessary for me. Have seen others without o-ring and they used locktite on at least the gearbox side rotor bearing. I don't know about the coolant manifold side.



I'd imagine locktite can make it hard to get it out again. Mine gearbox side rotor bearing was rusted to the bore due to coolant leak and took quite a bit of force to get it out. Have also heard of cases of this bearing got pulled off of the rotor and stuck in the bore during rotor extraction.

My worrys is about if my bearing bore is out off tolerance bearing ring can spin in that bore, it look like my old bearing have spun in that bore. Anyone had same issue ?

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I read about this 1.2million mile model S the other day - which shockingly has had 13 replacement motors!
Seems even Tesla couldn't fix it! Would be interesting to know what kept failing on these - if it was the same coolant ingress problem?

https://insideevs.com/news/699413/highe ... 14-motors/

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I found coolant in the Encoder Wheel area as well and there was a slight score on the rotor shaft pipe. I drained the oil in the gearbox and didn't find any coolant in the oil as it was also still red & clear. The inverter housing is also clean and dry. For rotor removal, can you remove the motor rotor from the stator without splitting the gearbox? I was thinking of lifting the entire unit vertically with the motor on the bottom and gently "dropping" the rotor out of the assembly as you suggested. Any downside to trying this?

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A small update regarding my SKF seal and speedi sleeve.

I pulled the encoder whilst fault finding this issue. The wheel was still dry. A little residue on the encoder but that might have been from the silicon used to seat the seal.

Edit: forgot to mention that I think that's 17k miles on this set-up but I haven't done many miles over the past few months.

Does anyone know what happened to howardc64?

muehlpower wrote: ↑Sat Apr 20, 2024 12:20 pm Does anyone know what happened to howardc64?

Is it common for the forum to mark all of a users posts as deleted if they leave?

If not, I'd guess he started a rebuilding service for these and decided to take his info with him - but I have no idea for sure.

jrbe wrote: ↑Sat Apr 20, 2024 6:39 pm Is it common for the forum to mark all of a users posts as deleted if they leave?

I don't believe so - there are certainly some long inactive accounts where their posts are still up, but I don't know what happens if you delete your account - actually I'm not sure how one would delete their account and all posts.