openinverter forum

Kevin Sharpe wrote: ↑Sun May 05, 2019 12:41 pm

johu wrote: ↑Sat May 04, 2019 5:30 pmI think they are here on the forum as well.

I'm co-owner of New Electric Ireland and can answer questions relating to the group which has now grown to five companies

In Ireland we focus on vehicle RND and support numerous Open Source projects. I won't necessarily have at my finger tips answers relating to products or conversions from elsewhere in the group but I can get answers with a short delay

what is the cost of the coupler ?

kiwifiat wrote: ↑Sun May 05, 2019 10:00 pm Hi Kevin, The question I have for you is what is the cost of the Nissan Leaf spline adapter?

zippy500 wrote: ↑Sun May 05, 2019 11:20 pm what is the cost of the coupler ?

225-250 Euros... for full details follow this link -> New Electric Couplers and Adaptor Plates

So this weekend was great. I had both Arber and his family and my father over to help me get back on track with the Touran conversion.

We test-mounted one battery brick (1/2 Leaf pack) under the car with no greater problems. The other half is residing in the boot right now. My dad could not stop working until we had this done at 23:00

The adapter plates between motor and transmission are pretty much sorted. I use two 300x80x40x4 profiles to cover most of the distance. They are connected by U-profiles mainly for water proofing. Then comes the actual transmission plates which we made with the jigsaw It is only 15mm and we found out the hard way that it better be 25mm - the shaft coupler is about 5-8mm too long. So I went to a random steel working company today and found a 100x460x8 aluminum plate in the scrap. Will saw it in half and thereby add the extra distance.

Mechanically I just need to make a motor mount and the drive drain is in, yay

EDIT: maybe I should mention that Arber came from Slovenia which is 900km away - so: thank you very much

Wedding successful

Nicely done!

I guess that means you can just put cells in the back for now. To simplify the build.
I just cant wait for results.

A

Vacuum pump is in Used the original rubber mounts

And transmission is in.
Now need to make a motor mount, connect up the drive shafts, make some temporary DC cables and off we go

You can cut that mount near the hole and make a hole higher up. As long as mount is flat under. Then buy one 6mm flat piece of steel cca 100mm x [whatever vertical] and get it bent under bottom. Fit one end in the mount and another down at the motor mount in such a way it will carry motor even if a bolt falls off.
Side mounts are only to stasbilize motor. Real bi*$#h it to fit the rear mount in. Does your rear mount come with transmission?

A

Well I believe I've sorta done just that, see below He who can't weld uses profiles and screws
Yes the rear mount is attached to the transmission, easy peasy.

I've installed the Leaf wire harness and connected it up to switched 12V and GND. Only CAN missing. I might tap into it at the power steering. Inverter is powered, I can connect to the wifi.
Also installed a coolant pump from Mercedes, it starts to run with the key switch. Haven't decided on what radiator to use yet.
Also rigged up the vacuum pump to be controlled by the new "ECU", works beautifully.

More annoyingly the car has developed and airbag fault. I wonder if my messing around caused it

Tomorrow I should be ready to spin some wheels.

very nice work, I hope going to YouTube your great work

Very nice! I like that mount.
Did you disconnect some GND wire or cut any harness? Inside harness there are usually some wires that serve just to connect all the connector GND references. If you cut one you may disable a lot of things inadvertently.

Or maybe car is sensing a voltage reference change. Did you connect 12V battery?

A

We have liftoff
Connected my trusty 32V Sinopoly pack.
Drove some 5m up and down the driveway. There is not a lot of torque but still enough to pull against the handbrake in 3rd gear.
I took quite a liking of CAN today. I "wired up" the various control signals like key switch, throttle, brake via just mapping them on the CAN bus. So much easier then finding all that stuff in some convoluted wire harness. So there are just 4 wires connecting the Nissan to the VW world.

I've likely found the source of the airbag error. I had connected some "front bumper sensor" (whatever it senses) to the reverse switch of the transmission. They have the same plug. Stupid.
But I think the error must be deleted for the light to go out. Can that be done with Savvycan? Whats the cheapest way otherwise?

A vagcom cable should do it. About 10 Euros on ebay. Congratulations on the test drive. I have an 80v pack ready to drop into the E46.

Yep, ordered one.

Here is a video from the Touran series:

Looking great!
Glad to see some relatively modern VAG related conversion going on here. Have a 2003 A6 C5 1.9 Avant that has the makings of a donor. Good to hear how you have found a liking for the CAN on these as this was one of my thoughts on how difficult it was to get around acquiring all the relevant messages you need to keep the dash from lighting up like a Christmas tree .
Plan to go the Leaf power train route also. This thread is my new sticky

johu wrote: ↑Fri May 10, 2019 6:00 pm We have liftoff
Connected my trusty 32V Sinopoly pack.
Drove some 5m up and down the driveway. There is not a lot of torque but still enough to pull against the handbrake in 3rd gear.
I took quite a liking of CAN today. I "wired up" the various control signals like key switch, throttle, brake via just mapping them on the CAN bus. So much easier then finding all that stuff in some convoluted wire harness. So there are just 4 wires connecting the Nissan to the VW world.

I've likely found the source of the airbag error. I had connected some "front bumper sensor" (whatever it senses) to the reverse switch of the transmission. They have the same plug. Stupid.
But I think the error must be deleted for the light to go out. Can that be done with Savvycan? Whats the cheapest way otherwise?

Nice! I have seen the video and it is hillarious. I love the measured movement backwards.
There are two guys in Slovenia that are biting nails for results now...

To delete errors on Ampera i use ELM327 bluetooth dongle that goes to OBDII port and i use Torque pro app on my phone. I loaded PIDs for Ampera and i can now reliably read all parameters and delete errors if they appear...

I'll give torque a +1. It's an excellent app.

Mounted one battery in its final position and one temporary.
So now I could test at full voltage (380V). First thing I did was burning out the relay driver buried in the inverter
So I did manual precharging from now on
So when car is not in gear it tends to "idle". I got it to spin up to 4000rpm. The throttle/current curve is weird. When at high speed when I ease the throttle current actually increases. A lot to tune here. syncofs is 57000, next I will try the value that Arber used.
The first test drive was very slow and with unwanted regen. So just like Arbers experience.

Wow! So you actually did a full test drive with 360Vdc! That is a great step.
So did you use a strong steel profile to mount the battery pack? This will be tested now that your car will move and buck under 360Vdc.

I am looking forward to testing your findings in action.

A

No I was too lazy to change the mounts I drilled the middle one so that it now also fits. Also re-tapped the hole with the damaged tread.

Attached is todays parameter file.

Hm... did you observe correct deadtime for your IGBTs?
I noticed high discrepancy in FOC measurement with Lebowski controler if i chose too low deadtime.
And i used 1.6us, now i use 3.1us just to be safe.

A

johu wrote: ↑Fri May 10, 2019 6:00 pm We have liftoff
Connected my trusty 32V Sinopoly pack.
Drove some 5m up and down the driveway. There is not a lot of torque but still enough to pull against the handbrake in 3rd gear.
I took quite a liking of CAN today. I "wired up" the various control signals like key switch, throttle, brake via just mapping them on the CAN bus. So much easier then finding all that stuff in some convoluted wire harness. So there are just 4 wires connecting the Nissan to the VW world.

I've likely found the source of the airbag error. I had connected some "front bumper sensor" (whatever it senses) to the reverse switch of the transmission. They have the same plug. Stupid.
But I think the error must be deleted for the light to go out. Can that be done with Savvycan? Whats the cheapest way otherwise?

You will need to rid the code with a good diagnostic app. I remember leaving a connector off an airbag when replacing a VW Passat door once. The airbag light came on and stayed on. The code will not go out even when resetting the error codes in the normal way. You have to go deeper. I never did it again !! I used a VCDS unit.
Regards and keep going. The end is near.

Yes will see what software is included with the Chinese adapter.
The culprit is the most probably the front airbag sensor. It must be close to the starter motor. I'm afraid I sold it with the motor? If anyone knows a part number, let me know.

Latest video:

Have done some more testing today.
I tried different syncofs values between 55000 and 0 (equivalent to 65536). The motor did develop more torque but I think I must have operated in the field weakening region. With only 50% sine amplitude it would spin up to 8500rpm, so probably it would have been 17000 at full amplitude?
The torque is not very convincing yet. I can barely climb our 12% grade in 2nd gear.

Finally the precharge resistor died. When the DC switch driver burned out yesterday I ran the inverter via the precharge resistor. Very smelly. So today it gave up the ghost and is now cracked. Replacement ordered.

Same thing happened me on the Tesla board in the Panzer ages back. I upgraded to these babies :
https://www.onsemi.com/pub/Collateral/NCV8401-D.PDF