openinverter forum

I have always understood that the only measurement of a capacitor is capacitance and never to do that measurement with them in a circuit.

RetroZero, is there anyone local to you with a hot air station if so I could send you a board with a good working, pre programmed stm32 and you could get them swapped over. Next day with tnt to France is only 20 euros.

Jack Bauer wrote: ↑Fri Jul 24, 2020 1:39 pm RetroZero, is there anyone local to you with a hot air station if so I could send you a board with a good working, pre programmed stm32 and you could get them swapped over. Next day with tnt to France is only 20 euros.

Hi Damien, There is a place that re-opens on Monday that could help out with the replacement STM. I'm game to any solution that can help advance this "hurdle"...how do you suggest going about delivery?
I was planning on removing the capacitors and testing them out of circuit before Monday to see if they are the cause. If it isn't and the STM is en route, that helps! Thanks heaps, Joseph

Is it one of those first edition boards, where the STM was put on at 90 degrees? If so, I would just need to have it swopped on the existing board no?

retro I am willing to help., but I may not be of any value and I have to report that my good resolver did not stay good. ( I was sampling at 1000)
I made no hardware changes, but I tried all options under pinswap including sincos, pwm 13, and the otherpwm and also none.
then I went back to view the angle and its back to anything but the nice sawtooth.

so, as requested here is the reflow video.

damien, thanks for the advice about current, I am still processing that

yet another update,
in desperation I reflowed again, and voila! good resolver signal is back ( my poor craftmanship ) so I retested the pinswap settings
I get some throttle controlled movement, usually a quarter revolution, and i can plot current... one of the two plots swings up and down the other does not, I am placing my hands on the motor shaft to try to view physical resistance as current. using the params loaded from damiens json file.
not using manual start

YEY! Now you are ahead of me!

Thanks for the video. Hopefully will go with Damiens offer and play with original board when I have more time and know how.
Just removed capacitor C13 and it's operating fine. Charges to around 1,8v and dissipates slowly. The base of the board is not looking good, so I'll stop there...keep going, you're getting there.

Just to be clear I don't have a Gen 2 controller. What I offered was a random board with a programmed and working stm32 that could be swapped onto your EXISTING Gen 2 controller as a way of avoiding having to use an ST link to program a boot loader.

Ive never been so happy to see smoke, apparently its just residual oil burning off , because with continued testing it stopped by itself.
swapped in hardware red and yellow ( sin and cos) then also current swapped 1 and 2.
this is the first time ive got motor movement, and also turning throttle down does not stop it.

moving forward switch off does eventually stop the motor

this is id and iq when this was going on
for what it is worth

They are oil cooled, well normally

Good persisting mg testing

Do the wires with smoke coming off of them feel hot (measure with volts off, and caps discharged)?

Have you done the foc tuning procedure? If not you are probably causing id and iq to fight hence the heating.

May I ask what id and iq stand for? "I" is current, "U" is voltage, but d & q have me and a moderately deep 'net search turned up nothing.

ZooKeeper wrote: ↑Sun Jul 26, 2020 3:37 pm May I ask what id and iq stand for? "I" is current, "U" is voltage, but d & q have me and a moderately deep 'net search turned up nothing.

They stand for the magnetising and torque producing currents, but then you'd know that having watched Johannes' video on field oriented control, wouldn't you?

Jack Bauer wrote: ↑Sat Jul 25, 2020 9:20 am Just to be clear I don't have a Gen 2 controller. What I offered was a random board with a programmed and working stm32 that could be swapped onto your EXISTING Gen 2 controller as a way of avoiding having to use an ST link to program a boot loader.

Hi there Damien, looking at the progress of imwoody and zookeeper on Gen 2 transaxle and inverter combo, I've decided to take the road of reason...
I'll wait for Johu to return and get another board. I'll focus on the Power Split Device I am having machined, and hopefully I can propose something towards this thread from the mechanical side. Thanks heaps for your proposition.
BTW, relaoding the programme can be done with a ST Link V2?

SciroccoEV wrote: ↑Sun Jul 26, 2020 3:44 pm

ZooKeeper wrote: ↑Sun Jul 26, 2020 3:37 pm May I ask what id and iq stand for? "I" is current, "U" is voltage, but d & q have me and a moderately deep 'net search turned up nothing.

They stand for the magnetising and torque producing currents, but then you'd know that having watched Johannes' video on field oriented control, wouldn't you?

Thanks, but apparently not, even after multiple viewings I somehow missed that.

RetroZero wrote: ↑Sun Jul 26, 2020 4:40 pm BTW, relaoding the programme can be done with a ST Link V2?

Yes. Careful, there are apparently some fakes floating around -- if you get an STM32 Nucleo board those have an ST-link onboard (and also a spare STM32 chip).

-Isaac

I am struggling with the FOC tuning... actually melted what might have been an already damaged field winding.
another motor and im back to playing with throttle without manual inverter" on "mode.

should the current be in phase, out of phase, or 120 degrees apart for Il1 and il2

Well one thing I learned from your video is I NEED to secure my MGR so it does not go flying across the room!

I don't have a Gen2 inverter, but when testing the pinswap function in FOC software I had a similar result if the polarity of the current measurement was wrong.

I think there is a contribution that in the first Gen2 boards there is an error with the polarity of the current measurement reversed and Johannes therefore introduced the parameter pinswap.

With the wrong polarity, the engine turned after starting even at maximum speed and could not be regulated, the lines also got hot.

In manual mode it should be possible to regulate the current, if the polarity is wrong you could not regulate the current, because the limit will not reach.

imwoody36, did you calibrate the current sensors?

Jack Bauer wrote: ↑Mon Jul 27, 2020 6:55 am imwoody36, did you calibrate the current sensors?

um..no..how does one go about doing that?
this is the first time I have heard of that