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Well i managed to move along with speedo. The real problem was not my car that was the first suspect, but rather the shady chinese Arduino socket.
I managed to find that there was a cut trace on my socket and it prevented it from sending correct pulses to transistor.

This is my first iteration of speedo sim. I use an alu collar around the drive shaft. It is tightened to the shaft by two bolts and it has slots for two magnets end to end. I needed to fit it where the shaft runs in paralell with motor so there would be no lateral movement. This gives me 2 pulses per turn of the shaft. I take those pulses and divide them in Arduino to get correct pulsetrain to run the speedo. I had to built in a DCDC to lower the supply voltage and make a step down on the signals from 13V to managable 5V. Then i added one darlington transistor to amplify the signal from 5V to 12V that the speedo is familliar with.

Software was written by Ron AKA doobedoobedo here: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=52
I can now get normal pulse distribution for the speedo to show fairly accurate Km/h on. I will still have to time this to a GPS meter.

My plan is to make a propper interface board to use with Arduino NANO (or two if applicable ) to give a real time speedo signal with optional RPM signal. That is still under development now, but the part under the car will remain the same. I expect enable signal from the key to start RPM signal at steady 600RPM. This should make the ABS system work as before and maybe shut the engine light.

EDIT: I added the BSI and BSM files for future Peugeot conversions. This is Xantia BSM and it is used in lots of Peugeot/Citroen cars. It is in french, but data is easily readable

Very nice!
Just an idea for your consideration:
Have you thought about using the ABS sensors for vehicle speed? As far as I know they use a toothed wheel and Hall sensor or coil... It might provide faster response time, maybe also avoid imbalance on the driveshaft. If you're lucky the data will be on CAN buss...

-Isaac

That was my first thought yes. However this particular 406c model does not have CAN. It uses VAN bus which is proprietary... And I don't want to mess with safety systems.

arber333 wrote: ↑Fri May 15, 2020 10:14 pm That was my first thought yes. However this particular 406c model does not have CAN. It uses VAN bus which is proprietary... And I don't want to mess with safety systems.

Well if I look up VAN bus that is definitely not going to give any useful responses....
Quite sensible though, never want to disable your brakes.
I must say your vehicle is very nicely styled.

Enjoying following this thread, Arber. Keep up the inspirational work!

I'm interested exactly how you integrate the volt cabin heater. I need to do that on my car before long.

Boxster EV wrote: ↑Sat May 16, 2020 9:05 am I'm interested exactly how you integrate the volt cabin heater. I need to do that on my car before long.

Well the truth is I had too much to do and not enough of SWCAN knowledge. So I still have the heater on hold for now. I use webasto as primary heater and heated seats. It can get down to -20deg in winter here. I will probably add a 12V VW PTC heater in my air channel for autumn days.
Since I use Volt batteries I intend to use liquid cooling/heating for my battery. I will see how the cooling behaves for motor. Maybe I will just make a separate loop with one thermostat valve. TBD.

Dang! Speedo is still jumping all over. I guess I will need to put phase cables in socks and use lycy cable for signals...

I managed to wire coolant pump relay so that it starts when vehicle is charging. So I can use the same pump for everything. Also I start DCDC directly when charging. This leaves me with full 12V battery every charge.

EVdisplay is also acting up under high load. I really need to shield my phase cables.

Hi,

This is what I had doubt also - to run DCDC with charger or not. My cooling pump starts with charger, because after 15minutes it's hot at 10A/300V. For now I leave DCDC off, but maybe will be better like You did - also charge 12V battery during normal charging.

damian.lo wrote: ↑Tue May 19, 2020 8:27 am Hi,

This is what I had doubt also - to run DCDC with charger or not. My cooling pump starts with charger, because after 15minutes it's hot at 10A/300V. For now I leave DCDC off, but maybe will be better like You did - also charge 12V battery during normal charging.

I am thinking of finding an automatic 5A 14V AC/DC PSU. This mother of DCDCs has really low efficiency at low load. My water pump only consumes 1A or so. I just figured out when running with charger 12V fans are not working and DCDC gets really hot DOH! I need to turn it around and use better fans.

Today was a good day! I got my Pug rolling with all support elements operational. I still see DCDC is overheating and i need to turn it around and provide some better 12V cooling fans. Maybe i will also need to provide fresh air to inside of trunk.

We got liftoff and i tried various throttle pedal settings with and without regen.


Also i still need to get a driveshaft bearing retainer to fix driveshaft in place. There is some wobbling in driveshaft when accelerating and regen and i am cautious because the bearing can be moved by hand.
I found online Nissan declares the retainer part 39776JD000 a consumable and to be replaced everytime driveshafts are taken off.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NISSAN-OEM-11- ... 2784598170

arber333 wrote: ↑Sat May 23, 2020 9:12 pm Today was a good day! I got my Pug rolling with all support elements operational.

Congratulations

Looking good!
-Matt

I got the speedo working as well. And yesterday i managed to get RPM to 850turns. ABS and some other relays under the hood started clicking. I get functioning brake system and i think my AC will start working now... I hope.
https://leafdriveblog.wordpress.com/202 ... edo-works/
https://leafdriveblog.wordpress.com/202 ... r-working/

Say, does anyone know the pot values for the throttle body? Or where to get the corrrect idle values? The only errors now on ECU remain two for the throttle body. I suspect this is the only cause for the engine warning light to stay lit.
If some of you know the throttle values maybe i can set it up to convince ECU to clear the errors.

My Pug was 406c 3.0L ES9J4S - XFX engine and auto transmission.

Congratulations !

Looks very good and most important - it works
Another thing: I like Slovenian weather and view on second plane.

damian.lo wrote: ↑Mon May 25, 2020 12:26 pm Congratulations !

Looks very good and most important - it works
Another thing: I like Slovenian weather and view on second plane.

Hah! Weather just got better this weekend. It gave me an oppurtunity to take that video and test my RPM/speedo circuit.
What second plane did you have in mind? Do you mean the neighberhood ?
You are invited for a beer if you travel to Croatia for vacation. You will pass just 2km from here on A2 highway... I even have an EVSE available....

Second plane means exactly weather, sky, nice green trees - it's really nice neighborhood, I'm not joking.
Ok, thank You for invitation. I hope it will be possible to use EVSE after week of travel TO Croatia , then 2 days at Croatia and week to return with my BMW E87 I'm really curious about my range. Like You saw - Johannes did 80km and rest 25% of battery. I was hoping to have about 120-150km range on my battery (80 Leaf cells/about 320V max).
Today I measured insulation resistance of HV lines/batteries to electrical protocol - was excelent - more than 1GOhm, so I can go with rest of documentation.
I have to look at Your arduino code. I don't know why if I want to send speedo value from v3 board to instrument cluster, sometimes needle is working well, then goes down, waits and goes back. Probably refresh time should be shorter than 10ms, otherwise ECU overwrites this value by 0 rpm, I think.
Second - I have to somehow put 800rpm at idle, but only to 3 and 4 byte and don't touch second byte, because here is throttle value read by v3 board.
Any idea?

Ah you are using CAN bus to transmitt RPM and speedo. I havent had that luxury since my Pug is not CAN connected. At least i think not? I see no twisted wires anywhere!

I have put some Arduino PCBs to manufacture according to my protoboard. I posted it on my Github. I have made a 12V to 5V converter and used transistors to transmitt signal.
On RPM pins i put one pin to GND and the second one i output signal with a twist. Like Ron suggested i use inline ceramic 105 cap. This creates pulses that go below the GND plane and my RPM indicator reads them as reluctance wheel signals.

There will also be some signal inputs on the board. For example ENABLE signal for the RPM to start with engine start not at the turn of the key. Now i get some noises when RPM dial starts to work even before i apply engine on signal from alternator. Maybe it just confuses the BSM.

Also i will have two additional signal outputs with transistor to signal 12V (pullup or open collector) if i need to start a cooling fan relay or something.
https://github.com/arber333/Arduino-Nano-RPM-Speedo

For now i only have one Ampera battery inside. That will do for TUV. After that i will add a second one to extend my range hopefully to 160Km of highway driving. I see that possible with my Mazda now. Its a smaller car though and now power steering consumes some energy...
I also intend to add chademo port and Johannes circuit.
I will probably have a switch to select between single phase 3kW Eltek and 3phase fast 20kW Prius gen3 charger. EVSE port will remain the same.

I am getting closer now...

I got the bearing retainer and installed it. Bearing is supported from all sides now.
I ordered speedo PCB boards from manufacture and they should arrive next week.
I have SimpBMS Wiring in and connected now.
Later today if weather permit i will try some test runs.

I still need to do:
to calibrate current sensor.
to think on the underside cover now. Do you think 1.5mm alu sheet will be sufficient? I would like to get lexan sheet, but it is a bit pricey.
to sort out the wiring in front and add some original sensors. There are some strange errors on the dash now that ECU gets "engine" RPM.
I need to connect oit temp sensor and maybe some other analog sensors too.

Damn! I am so dissapointed by our regulators attitude...
I guess Slovenia shifted everything about development to Germany. They just say to go there and dont even want to listen and argue the points of ECE R100. They dont want to have anything to do with 360Vdc systems in my car. I dont know if it is fear or ignorance. When i tried to explain how it goes, they are just not interested.
But when i asked them if i returned with German TUV will they take it, they said yes without blinking. What a bunch of sheep!
This is what happens if you give up development. You become consumer society. This doesnt produce anything of value. Also when you hinder interested people instead of guiding them you will loose their trust and it will take generations to get that back.
At least in UK and DE you have procesess and procedures. I couldnt get anything from my regulators. I even got idea from one of them to go for 60Vdc system. That in a highway vehicke!

I dont know if i want to even live here anymore.
I will probably go to Munchen for TUV.

I had many let downs like this with Polo back in 2013. I was so disappointed that I let a friend call around until he got a satisfying answer. He made many calls, but in the end was successful. I went back to the same guy with Touran. Who inspected your Mazda?

After everything i read in the forum i am happy to be in Germany. In England it seems to be difficult to be classified as EV, in France everything has to be certified for a lot of money, in Switzerland you cannot have more performance than the original car. We have an information sheet from the TÜV with reasonable rules and are tax-free after the conversion.
Would it be possible to register your car in Germany and then import it as an electric car to Slovenia?

arber333 wrote: ↑Mon Jun 22, 2020 7:51 pm I will probably go to Munchen for TUV.

Do you know the folks from the Metron Institute? I met them many years ago in Slovenia and they might be willing to help

Kevin Sharpe wrote: ↑Mon Jun 22, 2020 9:35 pm

arber333 wrote: ↑Mon Jun 22, 2020 7:51 pm I will probably go to Munchen for TUV.

Do you know the folks from the Metron Institute? I met them many years ago in Slovenia and they might be willing to help

Yes actually i know Andrej. It is not like i couldnt bend some rules to get there. I would like to get a straight conversion. It is just the lack of interest and lack of support from regulators that got to me. I am actually one of them. I regulate aviation. And i never thought it to be that bad. Not since 2013 when i converted MX3. Back then people were actually interested in EVs. But same people that got my Mazda legal are now scared of EVs.
EDIT: Correction scared of HV EVs.

Back to actual conversion...
I guess throttle sensor was not the main culprit for "engine overheat" error displayed on dash.

How do i know that? Well i managed to connect throttle sensor and oil temp probe. Now after a longer time of "motor running" i still get "engine overheat" warning and STOP sign on the dash. At first glance it looks like a missing temp sensor. But when i try and follow what happens with sensors i see engine coolant temperature dial slowly rise from its corner up to 70deg! When it comes to about 1/3 warning happens and cooling fans start to blow at full speed.
I dont understand the logic behind this. I have a legitimate temp sensor connected to BSM on previous lines. I connected that directly to calm down BSM and also to have indicator for coolant temperature. I really didnt expect for the needle to move by itself.

But this happens only if i simulate engine RPM with my arduino. Any ideas? Are there more temp sensors?

I found in transmission training manual that one can use like 400ohm testing connection to test fan deploying function of transmission. Maybe that is happening because i dont have any ohm value connected. I will try to show it 1Kohm and see what happens.
Maybe i will be able to use this logic to manualy deploy fans at the time of my choosing.