openinverter forum

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Yes, since I can't help with design circuits, I went hunting for connecter. Wasn't able to find connecter from inverter. Maybe 3D scan and remanufacture?

I could use 3 fastons and epoxy resin and make myself a permanent bond.
On Volt inverter I also have 3p header with connector on transaxle. I can't find that part either. I was thinking of making a blank with grommet and took the cable out and coupe it directly to compressor. Less problems that way.

Anyone knows a good metal web-sock I could use to shield cables?

EDIT: It seems like it is YHVA280-3PXM connector and can be get at Mouser. Contacts are 2.8mm AMP MCP female. I may yet pull this off without sacrificing cables and plugs.

You could send a photo to connectorexperts.com They might be able to match it up.

1587715-9 is a TE connector;

https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-1587715-9.html

1587727-1 is a TE connector;

https://www.te.com/usa-en/search.html?q=1587727

Tnx i got that one...
viewtopic.php?f=9&t=704&start=10

Good day, I have a question thus slightly off topic. Has anyone made any effort to look into Ground fault detection or Loss of isolation fault monitoring in the Gen 2 inverter?

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Jack Bauer wrote: ↑Mon Mar 16, 2020 10:56 am I have sent you a built and tested board:)

It's been a while, but contactors made it to my door. And I have got some free time to play with gen2 board.
I provided power to the board and bluepill shows solid green led and blinks with red led. That is OK. Update. Loaded stm32_loader, then loaded stm32_sine. Everything is OK. Now need to pre program things before connecting to inverter.

I think for the MGR you would need stm32_foc though, no?

jnsaff wrote: ↑Fri May 15, 2020 12:30 pm I think for the MGR you would need stm32_foc though, no?

yes, but this board is for my 30kW custom ACIM, currently running under curtis controller. I'll try to spin it tomorrow. Maybe will make my thread in "projects"

konstantin8818 wrote: ↑Fri May 15, 2020 12:53 pm Maybe will make my thread in "projects"

Please do create a project thread

Have find out that this picture on wiki is not correct: All switches not supposed to be connected to ground but to 12V input.

konstantin8818 wrote: ↑Fri May 15, 2020 2:38 pm Have find out that this picture on wiki is not correct:
All switches not supposed to be connected to ground but to 12V input.

Oops. I first proposed it as a sketch just to see if what I imagined I should do was correct. No one corrected it, so I added it to the wiki.

I'll make an update but, might as well hold off until you figure out all my other mistakes first.

Thanks for finally drawing attention to it.

MattsAwesomeStuff wrote: ↑Fri May 15, 2020 4:56 pm
I'll make an update but, might as well hold off until you figure out all my other mistakes first.

Thanks for finally drawing attention to it.

Yup, already found another one contactors must be connected to 12v insteard of ground as well.

Okay, let's go through line by line.

Battery: I'd hope this is fine :p

Throttle Pedal/Brake Pedal/Brake Switch/Start (key)/Forward (drive)/Reverse: All of these that tie to GND should tie to 12v+? If not, which?

Motor Temp/Heatsink Temp: GND or 12v?

Encoder: I presume this is fine as it connects to both, hard to screw that up.

All TB3-1-10: I presume these are fine, none tie to GND or 12v.

HV Precharge/HV Main Contactor: These should be 12v+ instead of GND.


Also, six months ago..., ahem: "4 - I'm not sure I've connected all my driving components correctly (Throttle, Brake, Brake Switch, Start, Forward, Reverse, Motor Temp, Heat Temp), I presume these are just tied to ground, not the other way and tied to the positive rail?" In my defence, I identified my ignorance early... :p

Also... when you say they should go to 12v. There is no 12VCC+ on that side of the blue pill. There's only the 12v battery input (which'll be like, 14.4v-ish). So, the switches have to get wired to jump all the way across the board to the far side? Seems odd. Why wouldn't Damien have put an extra 12VCC+ on the left side instead of the GND, if they all tie to 12VCC+?

In other news, today is the 1 year anniversary of me going to pick up my Opel GTs. Lots of people mocked me and said I'd never get it rolling in the summer, that I wouldn't even have it rolling within a year. Some egg on my face today, they were right, I was wrong. But, it would be a nice milestone to get my motor spinning today so, maybe I'll make today the day I try to finally wire up the control board.

Battery is Ok. All pedals are OK.

TB1-7 Brake In 12v digital input from brake light switch. Don't really understand this one: is this signal from brake light switch so controller knows we braking and cuts power? Or is this provides 12V to brake light when controller is on regen?

TB1-8 Start In 12v digital input from "Start" position on a traditional ignition switch. Momentary action push button can be used.
TB1-9 For In 12v digital input commands motor to run in forward direction
TB1-10 Rev In 12v digital input commands motor to run in reverse direction
Instead of common ground should be connected to common +12V

All TB-2 and TB-3 are OK if table to the left of the picture is correct.

TB4-2 Main Con Main HV contactor control low side switch (this is ground from lower BTS117)
TB4-3 Precharge HV precharge contactor control low side switch (this is ground from upper BTS117)
TB4-4 +12 V VCC Spare 12v output (common terminal for both contactors)
Both contactors instead of common groung should be connected to common +12V

konstantin8818 wrote: ↑Sat May 16, 2020 6:05 am TB1-7 Brake In 12v digital input from brake light switch. Don't really understand this one: is this signal from brake light switch so controller knows we braking and cuts power? Or is this provides 12V to brake light when controller is on regen?

From what I understand, this is the switch that would make your brake lights turn on. The switch in the brake pedal. I think it just means "Your brake pedal is being pushed" I think it's so OpenInverter software knows to stop accelerating, or, to start regen? But it's only digital, so, how does it know how much to regen?

All TB-2 and TB-3 are OK if table to the left of the picture is correct.

Damien filled out that table, so I'm relatively confident it's correct.

MattsAwesomeStuff wrote: ↑Sat May 16, 2020 5:09 pm The switch in the brake pedal. I think it just means "Your brake pedal is being pushed" I think it's so OpenInverter software knows to stop accelerating, or, to start regen? But it's only digital, so, how does it know how much to regen?

There are two throttle inputs. You can either have them set as redundant throttles, or one can be used as a regen input.

SciroccoEV wrote: ↑Sat May 16, 2020 5:18 pm There are two throttle inputs. You can either have them set as redundant throttles, or one can be used as a regen input.

Yes, second throttle is called "regen in". But we talking about "brake in" pin.
And if I'm correct, "brake in" means that it is input. Input from brake pedal switch that turns on brake lights, for inverter to overrun accelerator pedal. This input connects to blue pill pin called "mg2_brake_in_16"

konstantin8818 wrote: ↑Sat May 16, 2020 6:26 pm Yes, second throttle is called "regen in". But we talking about "brake in" pin.

I was answering Matt's question. Try reading it again.

MattsAwesomeStuff wrote: ↑Sat May 16, 2020 6:09 pm
The switch in the brake pedal. I think it just means "Your brake pedal is being pushed" I think it's so OpenInverter software knows to stop accelerating, or, to start regen? But it's only digital, so, how does it know how much to regen?

I'll duplicate my current problem in this thread:
Trying to programm blue pill on a gen2 board with attached contactors, I've bumped into a problem. Every time I connect 12V to a board, precharge contactor cycles "on/off" three times and one time "on" in one second. I believe it cycles every time controller faces an error. There are three errors show up: And if I connect "start" to 12V, precharge contactor turns off as intended, but main does not turns on.
Am I the only one to face such a problem? Have I done something wrong?
Is latest software compatible with gen2 board pinout?

SciroccoEV wrote: ↑Sat May 16, 2020 6:34 pmI was answering Matt's question.

I was muddying the waters. I was talking about both at the same time. I forgot about Regen in.

So, yes, there is a regen throttle pedal (or paddle) input, duh. And the "brake switch" is just the (presumably normally open?) switch on the brake pedal that closes when you first touch the brake.

UPD: so control board was tripping because of economizer in contactor... however same three errors are still there.

konstantin8818 wrote: ↑Sun May 17, 2020 7:39 am UPD: so control board was tripping because of economizer in contactor... however same three errors are still there.

The software expects the current sensors to read somewhere close to zero at startup. That's both your offset errors.