openinverter forum

Bratitude wrote: ↑Sun Sep 20, 2020 11:55 pm
If arlins dyno explodes, it’s doing it in a isolated location. It’s not a moving in a vehicle in public.

I’d rather have something explode when stationary, than when I’m moving at 120km on a highway. With traffic.

you can do a lot of things, and some of which are done by folks on this forum. Is it a safe methodology? No. dose it work? Yes.

Personally, looking at the full cost of making a coupler for the leaf out of clutch disks, raw material and machining made no sense to me.
it just made more economical sense to get a batch of custom couplers made. I didnt have personal access to a lathe big enough, or welding equipment capable.

machining down splined centres and interface fitting them in a rotex or love joy, is a safe way forward.

Alibro wrote: ↑Mon Sep 21, 2020 8:22 am

Bratitude wrote: ↑Sun Sep 20, 2020 11:55 pm
If arlins dyno explodes, it’s doing it in a isolated location. It’s not a moving in a vehicle in public.

I’d rather have something explode when stationary, than when I’m moving at 120km on a highway. With traffic.

you can do a lot of things, and some of which are done by folks on this forum. Is it a safe methodology? No. dose it work? Yes.

Personally, looking at the full cost of making a coupler for the leaf out of clutch disks, raw material and machining made no sense to me.
it just made more economical sense to get a batch of custom couplers made. I didnt have personal access to a lathe big enough, or welding equipment capable.

machining down splined centres and interface fitting them in a rotex or love joy, is a safe way forward.

I don't believe the coupler I bought would explode at the rpm we are talking about as BMW will have over engineered them, at least not for several years but I take the point.
So assuming this coupler is not suitable it would be a simple thing to have a similar shaped coupler water jet cut from 1/2" steel along with the triangle adapters. Doing it this way would allow me to use bolts to assemble it and test for alignment before welding everything up including the coupler. It would probably be more accurate too as my measuring of the BMW coupler will not be perfect.

Building it like this brings up another question though, would adding all this weight to the coupler cause issues with the bearings in the motor and gearbox?

Machining the splines would be a last resort for me as there is no return and no second chances if it goes wrong and your £500 motor is now virtually worthless.

arber333 wrote: ↑Mon Sep 21, 2020 5:09 am

Bratitude wrote: ↑Sun Sep 20, 2020 11:55 pm Personally, looking at the full cost of making a coupler for the leaf out of clutch disks, raw material and machining made no sense to me.
it just made more economical sense to get a batch of custom couplers made. I didnt have personal access to a lathe big enough, or welding equipment capable.

machining down splined centres and interface fitting them in a rotex or love joy, is a safe way forward.

I agree welded coupler is not optimal, but if you consider my EV is my prime mover to work i needed to get it working when my clutch shed splines. When such a case repeated in the course of 1/2 a year i went for the best available option. Also i knew a single clutch center will not support the weight of the coupler. So we welded two clutch centers and it worked. I am actually impressed that i could weld on the fine grained coupler casting material.

Well i will get my friend to build splined insert tube with dowel pin groove on the outer side from tempered steel. This could be then cut to length and inserted into machined coupler whatever flavour that might be. Before final installation you would still need access to lathe, but it would mean a lot less operation and everything would be balanced in center.

Bratitude wrote: ↑Mon Sep 21, 2020 2:13 pm what side sheared? The transmission or leaf ?

once I sell off the rest of the couplers I had made, I’m happy to share the coupler design and spline geometry !

Alibro wrote: ↑Mon Sep 21, 2020 5:40 pm I've been thinking, (usually a dangerous thing. )
Am I right in saying a small imbalance of a few grams very close to the centre of the shaft would be a small issue but the diameter of the coupler I'm proposing could move the potential imbalance several cm away from the centre.
Would centrifugal force make that a bigger issue?

Alibro wrote: ↑Thu Sep 24, 2020 9:28 am Have you tried Amazon? The Blueprint ADC43101 is available in the US for $55 and fits my Gen1 Motor better than that one

vwbrady wrote: ↑Thu Oct 01, 2020 3:47 pm I've located a 1.5l clutch disc for a NA "EF" early 90s Honda Civic. (sachs 1878654584 or M-PACT 99698D) It has the following dimensions: 27/32" X 20T (21.034mm)

I think this is likely the same spline as the 1.4l already tested by Philip. It's twice as expensive as the previous discs i've tried but we'll see how it fits.

NA buyers are bias toward automatic transmissions , and most of the small displacement engines were not offered here.

Alibro wrote: ↑Wed Oct 07, 2020 8:56 pm
I think you have a typo as 27/32 is 21.431mm. It sounds like it might be too tight as the shaft is 21.6mm ish. Would it be possible to go around each valley with a hack saw to try and widen it out? Not sure how hard it would be to cut with a saw.

I have ordered a friction disc 20 tooth x 22mm and will report back.

Alibro wrote: ↑Thu Oct 08, 2020 3:34 pm I think maybe one of the posts on the first page of this thread has a link to someone having them made.

bexander wrote: ↑Fri Jul 09, 2021 10:35 am Anyone tested with a Daihatsu Hijet clutch plate?
Sachs specs 19,4x22-20N for 1878 991 701.

bexander wrote: ↑Fri Jul 09, 2021 10:35 am Anyone tested with a Daihatsu Hijet clutch plate?
Sachs specs 19,4x22-20N for 1878 991 701.

bexander wrote: ↑Tue Jul 20, 2021 8:27 pm

bexander wrote: ↑Fri Jul 09, 2021 10:35 am Anyone tested with a Daihatsu Hijet clutch plate?
Sachs specs 19,4x22-20N for 1878 991 701.

This clutch plate has the wrong profile on the splines and does not fit the leaf motor shaft.