openinverter forum

Jacobsmess wrote: ↑Wed Nov 22, 2023 9:31 pm Have you spin up the ls600H transmission yet? Is it identical to the GS450H bar the transfer box?
I like the look of that Hyundai EPAS, it looks way more compact than the Corsa options that are commonly used.

Yes, see my video a few posts back. Seems pretty similar to GS450H, some inverter wiring shares same pinout as the LS300H. Zombieverter seems to talk to it fine on GS450H setting, at least at low speed on bench. Fingers crossed it will continue to work as hoped.

The Hyundai Sonata EPAS is bigger than most other systems, motor and gearbox size, which is why I chose it for my truck, given the bigger wheels. Taking a chance on it, but seems to work well. Can be clocked in different orientations which worked in my favor.

crasbe wrote: ↑Wed Nov 22, 2023 10:38 pm With the drum brakes, you might need a pressure retention valve or residual pressure valve for a proper function with the newer style master cylinder.
I'm not sure about the Scout, but some cars with drum brakes need to have a static pressure in the system even when the brake pedal is not depressed to avoid the pads moving away too far from the brake drum. Usually the residual pressure valve is part of the master cylinder, but as it is not needed with disc brakes, your new master cylinder does not have that feature.

Agreed - I have an adjustable proportional valve and a residual pressure release valve for rear drums ready to fit. Hoping I can make this work, otherwise I have seen adapters that mate the iBooster to Wilwood master cylinders. Some guys have had issues with the iBooster pulsating at the bottom of the stroke when used on conversions with older cars with drum brakes. I suspect that may be related to the larger fluid displacement needed for drum brake rears and am crossing my fingers that the larger bore size master will compensate for this. Time will tell!

Update: Finished welding the battery box:
Welded up a shelf to mount the inverter and closed some holes in the firewall: Here it is with my wooden mockup. Sooooo much easier to handle this than the real battery box. You can also see the chassis front crossmember now relocated and welded further up front to accommodate the large box.
Glam shot of the Scout with its face on

Finished front and back battery box mounts and trial fitted: I flipped the orientation of the top and bottom battery modules to better accommodate the available space. The top layer will overhang the transmission a little, giving room for a radiator up front (I hope)

Not shown the above, but I welded these inserts into the top rail for lifting with hoist

Fitting the modules I was able to reuse a lot of the bits from the original pack I had to splice into the BMS harness to extend the reach to the top layer. Here is how it was originally. I bought a pin remover tool for the Molex minifit connectors, but for the life of me could not get the pins to release. May have been my technique, or a dud tool I bought, but either way I gave up and cut and spliced a join.
This is how I reach the upper deck: Thinking of mounting the HVJB on top and coming in from underneath after routing through a manual disconnect switch:

Small update, but lots of time messing around finding fittings and parts to completely replumb the braking system. Chevy Volt Gen1 iBooster, proportional valve and 10 lb residual pressure release valve for the rear drums. All new NiCopp brake line throughout. First time using this stuff, and I'm sold on how easy it is to flare. Pressure test next and wire up the iBooster.
Also got a 12 circuit universal wiring harness to start from scratch with this car. Believe it or not, this Scout 80 came equipped from the factory in 1964 with no fusebox. Simpler times then for sure. Needless to say, the wiring was a mess, so good to start over.

Cleaned up underside and working on parking brake cable routing which is different for these jeep axles than on the original Scout Fabricated new bracket and welded to frame

I thought I was done with structural rust repair and then spotted this little guy lurking under the dash
Of course, it turned into a bigger adventure than I anticipated when I looked from the other side. Needed to sort it out as it is around the door pillar area. Tricky spot with multiple overlapping seams.
A lick of rust converter on the hidden inside seams
Strong now again, and will be hidden behind front fender, so does not need to look pretty

It's been raining more than usual here (and of course only at weekends) so not much going on. My neighbor did stop by and ask was I building a CyberTruck

robertwa wrote: ↑Sun Apr 14, 2024 5:28 pm It's been raining more than usual here (and of course only at weekends) so not much going on. My neighbor did stop by and ask was I building a CyberTruck

20240406_081119[1].jpg

Haha, more like Cybertarp

OK, the sun came back out and we are back on the wagon. Had to re-do the front transmission mount when I realized I hadn't planned for the front driveshaft travel (shown here is just a galvanized tube obviously, not the driveshaft )

Not a great pic, as the battery rear crossmember is in the way:

Built a mount for the Tesla model 3 throttle pedal

Loving the transmission access in this rig

Not mounted yet, but found some manual slider, heated seats from a Smartfortwo car

Outlander charger seems to fit nicely on top of the wheel arch/fender well. Fabricated mounting brackets

Same for inverter on other side

Almost ready to drop in battery pack One thing bothering me is I have not yet welded the spring perches to the front axle. This sets the pinion angle for the front diff, and the weight from the battery pack I heard will compress the springs, causing a rotation to the axle housing, altering pinion angle and also steering castor. So the plan is to load it with the pack, and adjust the pinion to zero degrees with my jack and then burn-in the spring perches. I expect castor to remain OK (or at least similar to the Jeep the axles came from as long as the pinion is horizontal). Not looking forward to upside down welding, but neither does removing the axle to weld

Many times I've regretted not going 2WD with the GS450H, but I'm too far in now!

Finally getting this hulk off the table
Weight is in lbs. Load leveler and chains are 16lbs, so 566lbs total. About the same as a fully dressed Chevy small block V8, so maybe not too bad having all the weight up front in engine bay, although granted, my weight is up higher.....

Still need to finish the lid, and am going to try and reuse these pressure vents from the original pack and maybe cutdown and incorporate the Tesla cover plate

OK, facing a bit of a setback. After finishing the battery box covers, and the BMS wiring, I connected it up before sealing the lid. Now I am seeing bad cell readings on one module:
Note my modules are 7s, and the BMS boards each have 2 BMS chips, so each physical module is represented above as a pair of modules on the simpbms reading (here my bad module is the 4th physical module and shown here as 4 cells from module 7 and 3 cells from module 8).

I had done a check 2 months ago and the cells showing bad today were all at ~3.5V, so not sure what has happened. I plan to pull the module from the pack (luckily it's on the top layer) and check the cells manually, hopefully it is a cell tap issue and not bad cells. Fingers crossed.

The slave modules are known for being shitty and prone to issues. Also the celltaps on the modules can get corroded.

Ok swapped slave boards and the problem stayed with the module.
Removed module from pack and found this corroded celltap.
Now need to figure out best method to reattach - any suggestions?

That looks ultrasonicly welded, or the intent was there..

You could try something like this,
https://www.te.com/en/product-63895-1.html Just make sure it's got a really good bite. And you should probably use some anti-corrosion goo too.

A backup like a zip tie that can't slip should also be considered if you go this route.

Thanks jrbe, that looks like a great idea and might try these if I decide to do all the modules. For now I tried a fix with parts I had.

Drilled and tapped and added a stubby cut down M3 bolt to hold the celltap. Will lather with 2 part epoxy as well and hit the other wires with the goo too for good measure

There's no easy options for fixes like this.

How hard was it keeping metal dust out / from falling in?

jrbe wrote: ↑Wed May 22, 2024 10:45 pm How hard was it keeping metal dust out / from falling in?

Not too bad, most swarf came out the front, and then the drill went into the plastic casing a bit rather than into an open cavity so I think its all good. I had a vacuum on it as well.