openinverter forum

johu wrote: ↑Tue Jul 05, 2022 3:07 pm Now I see the problem. v3 Boards have a 5->3.3V divider on board on the current sensor input. So your 1.65V is divided again, therefor hicurofs
With the voltage you'd have to check the analog signal that goes into the V3 brainboard and how it behaves as you change HV

Thanks. Divider on the Invertor we will remove.
What fuses do I need to set on attiny13? No output from AtTiny, I think it's because we didn't set fuses.

Oh that's long ago. As far as I remember I programmed it to run on default fuses. Where on earth did you dig out the software for it?

It was a long time ago in a galaxy far, far away, I don't remember where I was able to get this firmware from. OK, we will search:-)

johu wrote: ↑Tue Jul 05, 2022 3:07 pm Now I see the problem. v3 Boards have a 5->3.3V divider on board on the current sensor input. So your 1.65V is divided again, therefor hicurof

does this mean that you need to remove R50 and R51, as well as replace the jumpers with R48 and R49? or only remove R50 and R51?

Only remove R50/51

johu wrote: ↑Thu Jul 07, 2022 11:54 amOnly remove R50/51

Thank you!

Today I continued to test the mg1 motor and the nissan leaf gen2 inverter. when the voltage was increased from 24 volts to 48 ,revolutions they wanted to go to heaven. the limit was triggered at 8000 rpm, I lowered it to 7500 rpm max. strangely, it works by stuttering. the sad thing is, I can't turn off the attenuation in any way. without it, it would be only 1500ob/min now.

but picking at the settings , I defeated the cruel regen when the throttle handle was reset !!!




P.S.: I had to nail the motor with anchor bolts into the concrete floor so that I could experience any acceleration and braking

Very cool that it spins up so nicely at low voltage. Stuttering is kindof normal, the control loop is targeted to limit revs in a moving vehicle which dampens the stuttering

What do you mean by:

Romale wrote: ↑Thu Jul 07, 2022 2:00 pm the sad thing is, I can't turn off the attenuation in any way. without it, it would be only 1500ob/min now.

johu wrote: ↑Thu Jul 07, 2022 4:26 pm
What do you mean by:

Romale wrote: ↑Thu Jul 07, 2022 2:00 pm the sad thing is, I can't turn off the attenuation in any way. without it, it would be only 1500ob/min now.

the regular revolutions of this motor should be like this if in 48v battery you turn off the flux weakening

and I won the stutter by playing with the settings of the fw and syncadv. now the motor is running smoothly.

smooth operation without stuttering of the speed limiter + no uncontrolled regen when releasing the throttle

I finally did it!
The Honda IMA is running and powered by the V3 board.

Not everything is as good as it seemed. The Honda Ima inverter worked perfectly at a voltage of about 70 volts, but as soon as I added 6 more cells and the voltage rose to 96 volts, overcurrent often began to hit. If the voltage is even higher (130 volts), then the motor does not start at all, it makes several turns and stops with a current error.
I used the current sensors from nissan leaf gen2 and its own proven setup for these sensors.
Voltage measurement was not carried out at all.

Who has any thoughts on this?

this is the settings file, which worked fine at a voltage of up to 72 volts.

Romale wrote: ↑Tue Jul 12, 2022 9:52 am Not everything is as good as it seemed. The Honda Ima inverter worked perfectly at a voltage of about 70 volts, but as soon as I added 6 more cells and the voltage rose to 96 volts, overcurrent often began to hit. If the voltage is even higher (130 volts), then the motor does not start at all, it makes several turns and stops with a current error.
I used the current sensors from nissan leaf gen2 and its own proven setup for these sensors.
Voltage measurement was not carried out at all.

Who has any thoughts on this?

If i remember correctly we used 4K7 pulldown resistors on current sensor lines. But that was with Lebowski drive.
IMA should be good up to 150Vdc.
Try it maybe it works for you too.

arber333 wrote: ↑Tue Jul 12, 2022 10:21 am
If i remember correctly we used 4K7 pulldown resistors on current sensor lines. But that was with Lebowski drive.
IMA should be good up to 150Vdc.
Try it maybe it works for you too.

is it on the output line relative to +5 volts or relative to the gnd?

Romale wrote: ↑Tue Jul 12, 2022 10:24 am is it on the output line relative to +5 volts or relative to the gnd?

No, from each sensor output you put one 4K7 resistor towards GND. Preferably as close to the sensor as possible to pull down on the noise.

arber333 wrote: ↑Tue Jul 12, 2022 12:06 pm
No, from each sensor output you put one 4K7 resistor towards GND. Preferably as close to the sensor as possible to pull down on the noise.

good. thanks a lot for the advice, I'll definitely try later.

Now I took the second Honda ima inverter, left the native driver power board and native current sensors on it, connected only the brain board v3 and it works fine without errors at a voltage of 130 volts!
Probably the first inverter in which I replaced the power supply of the drivers with dc/dc 2 watts, the power supply is too weak.

For everyone who thought the Honda IMA inverter was too weak and not promising, here is proof of your mistake!

If only I could find some IMA inverters.
I can get about 100 different Toyota inverters online and some locally.

these are high-quality settings for the Honda ima inverter. please note, here the pwm is active high! you will also need to find your own angle of displacement of the sensor (syncofs).

also, you should remember, there is a common pdf file on the Internet with a connection diagram to the native driver, there is an ERROR there. gate Top and Bot are confused in places!

Romale wrote: ↑Sat Jun 25, 2022 7:54 pm I will add more interesting photos))

IMG_20220531_185046.jpg
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IMG_20220616_175114.jpg
IMG_20220616_213420.jpg
IMG_20220614_195302.jpg
IMG_20220614_195142.jpg

Sorry to go back to the start here but which Prius transaxle is this off and how much cutting/welding was required? It looks like a nice package and I'm wondering if it could be used in addition to the lexus hybrid gearboxes to lock the input shaft OR provide CVT control....

Jacobsmess wrote: ↑Sun Nov 05, 2023 10:16 am Sorry to go back to the start here but which Prius transaxle is this off and how much cutting/welding was required? It looks like a nice package and I'm wondering if it could be used in addition to the lexus hybrid gearboxes to lock the input shaft OR provide CVT control....

hi. this motor = generator from prius gen 2. there is no welding, only a grinder and a little patience. according to the inverter, I sawed off part of the board in vain, it does not work well with external DC / dc to power the drivers. look at my other topic, where the ima inverter is affected, there are pictures of how to use it. this is a wonderful inverter and it works even from 520 volts!!!

https://youtu.be/Z-6aFKg9ZqI?feature=shared

here, a generator from Nissan note e power is used as a motor, and the inverter is just IMA + oi board v3