openinverter forum

Jack Bauer wrote: ↑Thu Aug 01, 2019 1:57 pm In other news all the wiring diagrams for the gen 1 resolver connector on the motor that I have are wrong. Correct pinout :

1-2: Temp sensor. 20k at approx 20c ambient

3-8: 17R. Exciter

6-7: 37R. Sin/Cos

4-5 : 37R. Sin/Cos

Would you mind sharing the final connection between the resolver cable and white connector on the logic board? If you remember the colours please write them too.
Did you figure out the Sin+/Sin- and Cos+/Cos-, which of 4-5 and 6-7 is what?

Awesome work !

I'm just wondering where did you find the due_wire and Wire_EEPROM libraries ? The other two are easy to find with the arduino ide. And no luck with the wire lib's.

So good news is we can now command positive and negative torque and regen the motor in both directions.

0x1d4 byte 6 needs to be 0x30 before the inverter will accept a positive torque command. Updated the software on github for running on the open source vcu. All I need to do now is get it to read the throttle pedal and send torque commands that way.

https://github.com/damienmaguire/Nissan ... Controller

Here are a few pictures of my "blackboard" where I worked out the resolver connections. Will put it into something more readable.

Drove the car for the first time today:)

Wow that looks great:) its a gen 1?

Jack Bauer wrote: ↑Sun Aug 18, 2019 7:56 pm Wow that looks great:) its a gen 1?

Yes it is

Hey Damien, for the board build, whereabouts the R6 and R8 located? They are on the BOM but not on the pick and place file.

My Nissan leaf is here ..

Cheers,

Good day! Thanks everyone! are very cool!

Hello,

Like someone here knows, I'm building since some time BMW116 conversion with Leaf motor. My DIY inverter with Johannes v2 controller works, but in meantime I want to try also play with Leaf inverter. Controller from JB connected via CAN is great for this and I want to try this. I want to solder this myself, but here is problem with my soldering skill
I'm not able to solder ATSAM3X8 myself, so I have question - can You maybe sell me pcb with already soldered IC1? I tried to ask You via PW, but according new rules better will be here. Maybe other person will have the same question.

Regards.

damian.lo wrote: ↑Sun Oct 13, 2019 7:54 pm Hello,

Like someone here knows, I'm building since some time BMW116 conversion with Leaf motor. My DIY inverter with Johannes v2 controller works, but in meantime I want to try also play with Leaf inverter. Controller from JB connected via CAN is great for this and I want to try this. I want to solder this myself, but here is problem with my soldering skill
I'm not able to solder ATSAM3X8 myself, so I have question - can You maybe sell me pcb with already soldered IC1? I tried to ask You via PW, but according new rules better will be here. Maybe other person will have the same question.

Regards.

Honestly, I'm in the same boat in terms of SMD soldering, as the VCM is the first board I've ever done before (The only experience I have with soldering is on 18650 cells). Either way, that on shouldn't be too hard. Buy a solder wick (which are relatively cheap), look up some videos and read some articles on how to use it. You can bridge the connections all together and then use the solder wick to remove the excess solder.

And here's problem with all pads connected. I've already working v2 board from Johannes, which I done myself. Also I'm soldering from time to time some smd parts, but I feel that this is too small for me. From other side - in case of trouble I can take hotair and take cpu back. The world belongs to the brave man
Ok, I will wait a little - maybe Damien can make this favourite for me. Otherwise I have to fight with this. The most important is - car with motor is waiting for heart so I have to put something inside fast.

damian.lo wrote: ↑Sun Oct 20, 2019 2:12 pm And here's problem with all pads connected. I've already working v2 board from Johannes, which I done myself. Also I'm soldering from time to time some smd parts, but I feel that this is too small for me. From other side - in case of trouble I can take hotair and take cpu back. The world belongs to the brave man
Ok, I will wait a little - maybe Damien can make this favourite for me. Otherwise I have to fight with this. The most important is - car with motor is waiting for heart so I have to put something inside fast.

I think best is to just put rev. 2 board in controler and make connection. PWM signals are good, you just have to connect current sensors and voltage and temp sensing. I think this should be done with minimum loss of time. If you have to make a new circuit and all you loose time learning its quirks. Better to hold on to known ground for quick assembly.

But look at me full of wisdom and still my Pug wont drive...

EDIT: did anyone make a drawing of gen1 Leaf main board in Design spark. If i have layout i can quickly draw Lebowski board on that. Some time ago Bas told me it doesnt absolutely need three current sensors to run.

The best into Leaf inverter + Damiens board is clear connection via CAN. There is nothing to connect (yes, maybe some). If I will take v2 board + my power stage I really scare about my IGBTs that will blow. Like You said some time ago to me - better take proven power stage (prius or Leaf) and adopt only what is necessary to go.
Maybe v2 board + Leaf interface board from Johannes will be really fastest.
You have right - also me I have many open projects and car is still waiting.

arber333 wrote: ↑Sun Oct 20, 2019 4:54 pm EDIT: did anyone make a drawing of Leaf main board in Design spark. If i have layout i can quickly draw Lebowski board on that. Some time ago Bas told me it doesnt absolutely need three current sensors to run.

I don't know if you can import a gerber into design spark? My 2nd gen adaptor board has gerbers on github, you'd need the edge cuts one.

damian.lo wrote: ↑Sun Oct 13, 2019 7:54 pm I want to solder this myself, but here is problem with my soldering skill

Same here Damian! I have been looking at a lot of the youtube tutorials and I think I'll take a shot at the chip but making sure I have all the right utensils to hand. One thing I don't have is that hot air gun thing. I presume it would be far trickier using just a soldering iron?

Another question for you all. I nearly have all the parts but, from the BOM, there are a number of RS parts that you can only buy in rolls of 5000 (!?) or discontinued. I emailed them and mentioned them I would be more than happy to take 25-50 resistors off the 5000 roll but they said they couldn't...(or wouldn't!). Has anyone one any to spare, advise on where I can get the last remaining parts here: I had a look on mouser and elsewhere but unsure how accurate I have to be with other ratings aside from the resistance etc.

Thanks all!

Fiachra

If it's resistors and capacitors, get any with the same tolerance and power rating as in the BOM.

Exactly like doobedoobedo said, buy the same size 0805M and other values and will be good. Those missed parts, which were not present at Mouser, I bought in Farnell.
And one thing - don't miss to buy external Molex connectors A and B types with inserts, like I did Also are available at Farnell:
Conn. Molex 2x10 1 Molex 33472-2006
Conn. Molex 2x6 1 Molex 33472-1206
Terminal to Molex Conn. 32 Terminal Female Molex 33012-2002

Brill.
Thanks guys. What do you think soldering iron vs hot air gun method? Doable with an iron?

If you don't have hot air then 0805 should be easy enough with an iron. Have a practice first if you're not confident (you can get practice boards, google "0805 practice board").

I did the V3 mainboard with a 20 year old Ersa Multitip 15W, fine SMT solder and solder wick for the CPU. Basically short out all pins, then pull the excess solder off with the wick. Just make sure you align it right.

0805 it's no problem with thin iron, but bigger problem for me was cpu. For this I take old graphic card for example and first resolder old parts like memory and then try to solder them. Like Johannes said - most important is to align them and use flux. If some legs are joined together - use wick. In theory was simple - in practise - yes - is necessary practice

damian.lo wrote: ↑Mon Nov 11, 2019 10:09 pm 0805 it's no problem with thin iron, but bigger problem for me was cpu. For this I take old graphic card for example and first resolder old parts like memory and then try to solder them. Like Johannes said - most important is to align them and use flux. If some legs are joined together - use wick. In theory was simple - in practise - yes - is necessary practice

In Theory There Is No Difference Between Theory and Practice, In Practice There Is!