openinverter forum

I think I successfully replaced the mosfets and the motor is spinning. Issue is that I can only drive for about a second and tmphs temp goes to 100C and motor stops.
Water pump works and stops too. I checked the voltage and it always has 12v.
Even when the water pump works the inverter gives the over-temperature error TMPHMAX

Tomorrow is another fun day.

In the best case it's just an air pocket. In the worst case some inverter damage. Have you made sure coolant circulates bubble free?

It was air in the system.
Now I am in the same place I was last year in November. Car is running but still cannot accelerate too much. Last year I only had few minutes to test until the car caught on fire and I thought it was some settings that did no let me pull too much power.
Now I get the same. In the video, after I was turning back the power cut out and you can hear that violent sound when the power cuts out. Wheels still spin while the electric motor stops.

From the water pump I am splitting the water hose between the inverter and the motor. Should I push all the cold water through the inverter first and from the inverter to the motor? as is now that flow is split. Might the inverter need more cooling?
Video uploading now.

Yes common practise is to loop inverter -> motor -> radiator -> pump. That way inverter gets the coolest water. With parallel pipes you might get different flow rates in the parallel paths.

The temperature cutout in the inverter software is way too sudden for the SDU temperature slew rate. Must be improved.

Anyway, congratulations on getting moving again

@johu

Is there any setting that limits the inverter curent based on the temperature? Because when the inverter reaches I think 100C just kills all the power and that is very violent. The whole car feels that stop and it is a loud bang.

I was able to connect the laptop and get some screenshots while driving. Temperature is under control but the behavior is the same. The error I am showing is: CURRENTLIMIT

What is the value of iacmax?

johu wrote: ↑Wed Jun 05, 2024 6:49 am What is the value of iacmax?

iacmax = 800

Can the Tesla buddies chime in? What is a good value for iacmax?

Were do driving hard or just slowly? 800A sounds like a lot to surpass if it's real. Can you plot il1/il2 with 1000/1000 plot configuration

johu wrote: ↑Wed Jun 05, 2024 5:07 pm Can the Tesla buddies chime in? What is a good value for iacmax?

Were do driving hard or just slowly? 800A sounds like a lot to surpass if it's real. Can you plot il1/il2 with 1000/1000 plot configuration

Driving very slowly.
I tried to plot few times in the past but nothing shows up on the graph. Maybe I do not know how to use it.

I will try again afternoon.

Put a checkmark on il1 and il2 then press Start Plot below

I got both, a screenshot and a log file. Not sure which one is better.

So while you recorded this plot you still got juddering?

You can try disabling the iaclim by setting it to 0 and don't punch too hard until someone confirmed it's wise to do so.

johu wrote: ↑Fri Jun 07, 2024 4:22 pm So while you recorded this plot you still got juddering?

You can try disabling the iaclim by setting it to 0 and don't punch too hard until someone confirmed it's wise to do so.

Yes, If I recall right I have placed an arrow in the screenshot for one of the stops.

johu wrote: ↑Fri Jun 07, 2024 4:22 pm So while you recorded this plot you still got juddering?

You can try disabling the iaclim by setting it to 0 and don't punch too hard until someone confirmed it's wise to do so.

This one ? Is the only one I found.

IT'S NOT HAPPENING GOING BACKWARDS !!!!!

I changed IACMAX to 0 and same thing happened. In the beginning I can go forward slowly for few seconds but after it stops I have to wait longer and longer time to move forward for few seconds. Then I realized that if I go backwards it is not happening and started to go only backwards and works with no interruptions. as soon as I change to forward and try to accelerate it stops. if it is flat or downhill I can go longer forward.
Backwards I even accelerated harder and still works.

NOW, this motor is mounted Backwards, so backwards it is actually forward for the motor as it was originally used.
Let me know if you want me to test anything going backwards.

Also the error I got today was "THROTTLE2"

Proton wrote: ↑Sat Jun 08, 2024 1:27 am IT'S NOT HAPPENING GOING BACKWARDS !!!!!

Could it be something mechanical?

Proton wrote: ↑Sat Jun 08, 2024 1:27 am Also the error I got today was "THROTTLE2"

You are using potmode=DualChannel and maybe the second channel is not connected?

johu wrote: ↑Sun Jun 09, 2024 7:55 pm Could it be something mechanical?

Not sure what could be mechanical sincer it's working for few seconds. And then I go backwards and no issues. And same thing happened last year but did not have time to get this much into troubleshooting.
If I let the car just go down hill, motor is still spinning and there is no issue. Things change when I accelerate.
If I accelerate really slow, it is working for few seconds and then start feeling a small vibration an power cutting outIf I accelerate harder an power cuts out, I get that loud bang when power cuts out.
Will test again tomorrow.


For the throttle error, indeed I am not using 2nd channel.
Did not know there I a setting for that. I will correct that and see what error I get next. If therebins going to be an error.

OK, another test-drive on the road and Video.

There is any setting that would limit the Motor spinning backwards?
I am still getting the CURRENTLIMIT error.

The settings I have I are from here:
https://openinverter.org/parameters/ It shows as experimental, but that is all I found there to start with.

Some improvement tonight. I lifted up the driver side so the wheel was off the ground.
1. Took the wheel off and accelerate a few times and power cu off.
2. Put the wheel back and accelerated about 4 times without the power cutting out.
3. Started driving in the yard with no issues.
4. took my kids to help me with some flash lights so I can drive on the road. I was able to get a good acceleration but at some point still cut out. I was stil able to drive a little after that.
Any Ideas? maybe the sensors I took of the original board and transferred on the Open inverter board?

Video below.

Since I cannot figure out what is causing the loss of traction moving forward, I ordered another Tesla SDU. I will try first to test just with the new inverter. Should I move the open inverter board on the new inverter or just order a new Board? any suggestions?

You can use the latest 5.35 firmware, it has more gradual temperature derating. If it still cuts out with TMPHSMAX you can disable the derating by setting tmphsmax=120

If you really have insufficient flow rate or air bubbles this WILL KILL your inverter. If your cooling is sound it will just work fine

johu wrote: ↑Tue Sep 17, 2024 9:25 am You can use the latest 5.35 firmware, it has more gradual temperature derating. If it still cuts out with TMPHSMAX you can disable the derating by setting tmphsmax=120

If you really have insufficient flow rate or air bubbles this WILL KILL your inverter. If your cooling is sound it will just work fine

I will try the latest firmware. Water circuit was fixed. Thing is, it has no issues going in reverse. Even when it stops if I switch in reverse I can accelerate hard.

johu wrote: ↑Tue Sep 17, 2024 9:25 am You can use the latest 5.35 firmware, it has more gradual temperature derating.

I tried to use this firmware before but the car does not start. I do not have a wire from the brakes. I installed it again today but I cannot figure out how to start. is there any setting I can change to run without pushing the brake pedal until I install that wire?

And there are any parameters you suggest that you know should work on SDU? I tried already few of them I found on this forum like
this one : https://openinverter.org/parameters/view.html?id=27

These are known good, yes.
Set cruisemode to off, that will skip the brake check