ZombieVerter VCU Support

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deeamon
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Re: ZombieVerter VCU Support

Post by deeamon »

Check marking point on IC11.
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Re: ZombieVerter VCU Support

Post by PaulHeystee »

Thanks Collin80,
Yes, that is the way, however, I though you had to take the diode out of the board first.
Anyway, I checked and both diodes are correctly mounted, however, D1 measures both ways, I guess because the are other components connected to it
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Re: ZombieVerter VCU Support

Post by collin80 »

PaulHeystee wrote: Sun Nov 21, 2021 3:45 pm Thanks Collin80,
Yes, that is the way, however, I though you had to take the diode out of the board first.
Anyway, I checked and both diodes are correctly mounted, however, D1 measures both ways, I guess because the are other components connected to it
You generally don't need to take it off. But, you're correct that not doing so could cause you to see measurement both ways because of other parts. It's like that for diodes, resistors, capacitors, inductors. Not removing them from the board could cause weird readings but removing them is annoying so generally we all go out of our way not to remove stuff. You just have to be aware of the surrounding components and how they might affect your readings. Open Source is handy here because you can actually get the schematics and read them directly. It stinks trying to diagnose other people's designs with no schematics and also trying not to unsolder all kinds of things just to check them. Sometimes it is unavoidable.

For diagnosing your power issues I certainly would go the route of probing around on the board with negative to the ground and follow the pathway from input with your positive probe until you find where power stops. Keep the schematic handy as you do so and follow it down the line.
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Re: ZombieVerter VCU Support

Post by PaulHeystee »

I did probe around but found no voltages after pin 1 of IC11. I suspect that IC11 is faulty
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Re: ZombieVerter VCU Support

Post by collin80 »

PaulHeystee wrote: Sun Nov 21, 2021 3:54 pm I did probe around but found no voltages after pin 1 of IC11. I suspect that IC11 is faulty
If it is installed the proper direction and you're getting power to pin 1 then you would expect some power elsewhere. The pin 2 should be PWM'ing into the inductor. If you have the means to remove it you might remove D1 and test it by itself. It's a schottky diode which means it ought only conduct in one direction and have a pretty low voltage drop (probably 0.2 to 0.3). If is still conducting both ways then there's your problem. It's meant to block the reverse kickback from the inductor so it should be blocking in that direction. If it does not block positive voltage to ground then you'd be shorting your output to ground which is not going to work.
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Re: ZombieVerter VCU Support

Post by PaulHeystee »

ok, I will check it, thanks
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Re: ZombieVerter VCU Support

Post by PaulHeystee »

It looks like D1 is faulty, I took if off and measured it with my mulitmeter, it does not let through any current in any direction.
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Re: ZombieVerter VCU Support

Post by EV_Builder »

deeamon wrote: Fri Nov 19, 2021 10:35 am https://openinverter.org/wiki/ZombieVerter_VCU

IC14 = TJA1020 OR MCP2004
Are you sure? the MCP2003 has the wake-up? The MCP2004 has the fault pin there...
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Re: ZombieVerter VCU Support

Post by cgalpin »

Jack Bauer wrote: Sun Nov 21, 2021 10:38 am This is now my last time linking to this. If people can't be bothered to spend 5 minutes updating the wiki ...
viewtopic.php?p=33379#p33379
Done. I'll try help with documentation more once I get my board.
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Re: ZombieVerter VCU Support

Post by Jack Bauer »

Much appreciated. Its exactly as Colin said. Seeing someone spend a few minutes doing what seems to be a trivial task gives such a boost. Yes the sooner we have a release setup on github the better and as stated I am very actively working on that despite a lot of competing tasks.

Regards faulty parts on the boards it should be noted that ALL boards are given a 12v powerup test and programmed prior to dispatch so a power supply fault is quite unlikely.
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Re: ZombieVerter VCU Support

Post by PaulHeystee »

Thanks, good to know. I must have been doing something wrong. I ordered the schottky diode and as soon as it arrives I will solder it in and check.
I will double check the input voltage, just to be sure

question; is there a reason why the mounting holes are not connected to the ground plane? or should the board ground be connected to the enclosure and chassis?
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Re: ZombieVerter VCU Support

Post by Jack Bauer »

I'll double post this here and on the development thread just in case. The reason the modification to anain is not present on the GD branch of the repo is that I was (and am) unable to push a modification to libopeninv. Not sure why but probably just my own lack of understanding of Git. Anyway, here are binaries compiled from the current GD branch and tested on my GD board here this morning. Working perfectly. Please rename to stm32vcu before uploading and if someone could update the wiki with this info it would be greatly appreciated by not just me but by those who may encounter this question in the future when I am no longer around.
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Re: ZombieVerter VCU Support

Post by EV_Builder »

Nice Damien. If that's the only difference we can simply use a #Define around it.
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Re: ZombieVerter VCU Support

Post by Jack Bauer »

Further to my post this morning I proceeded to modify the current master branch from the repo as follows :

anain.cpp line 68 comment out :
// adc_start_conversion_regular(ADC1);// Comment out for GD MCU

stm32_can.cpp lines 305,306 and 308 modify as follows :

gpio_set_mode(GPIO_BANK_CAN2_RE_RX, GPIO_MODE_INPUT, GPIO_CNF_INPUT_PULL_UPDOWN, GPIO_CAN2_RE_RX);
gpio_set(GPIO_BANK_CAN2_RE_RX, GPIO_CAN2_RE_RX);
// Configure CAN pin: TX.-
gpio_set_mode(GPIO_BANK_CAN2_RE_TX, GPIO_MODE_OUTPUT_50_MHZ, GPIO_CNF_OUTPUT_ALTFN_PUSHPULL, GPIO_CAN2_RE_TX);

Compiled as normal and runs on the bench on my GD board. Binaries attached. I'm not sure if all the peripherals are working but will run on my test bench LEAF setup later today or tomorrow if time allows. This post will be copied into the development thread to ensure visibility and I would hope that this would now motivate someone to update Wiki and Github (Not you Johannes).

Ensure you rename the binaries to stm32_vcu.xxx to ensure no wifi issues.
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Re: ZombieVerter VCU Support

Post by EV_Builder »

I will try as promised to take this task up on me I can't promise I'm fast enough doing it though.
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Re: ZombieVerter VCU Support

Post by EV_Builder »

Will you update your GitHub with the latest schematic?So we V1's know the difference? Also there where some design corrections.
Maybe we should note them in the wiki.
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Re: ZombieVerter VCU Support

Post by PaulHeystee »

Does anybody have a suggestion how to solder this chip on the board correctly? I am using a hot air gun though but it feels like playing with lego while wearing boxing gloves.

I am very close to throw the board into the bin and wait until I can order a board that is fully populated
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Re: ZombieVerter VCU Support

Post by Bassmobile »

Jack Bauer wrote: Tue Nov 23, 2021 1:38 pm Further to my post this morning I proceeded to modify the current master branch from the repo as follows :

NOTE


In case it's not obvious, were talking about making these changes in the libopeninv includes..

if you properly clone the repository with git On the command line that looks like this;

Code: Select all

git clone --recurse-submodules git@github.com:damienmaguire/Stm32-vcu.git
That recursively pulls in copies of libopeninv, etc and tracks them... Hence your file-path should look like

Code: Select all

./Stm32-vcu/libopeninv/src/ 
and there you will find anain.cpp and stm32_can.cpp

if you already have the repository, then you can use fetch

Code: Select all

git fetch --recurse-submodules
More on fetch here in the GIT Docs

Make the above changes to these files for the GigaDevices GD32F107.


-edit:
EV_Builder wrote: Tue Nov 23, 2021 3:08 pm I will try as promised to take this task up on me I can't promise I'm fast enough doing it though.
Updates to the Wiki have already been made.
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Re: ZombieVerter VCU Support

Post by Bassmobile »

PaulHeystee wrote: Tue Nov 23, 2021 8:47 pm Does anybody have a suggestion how to solder this chip on the board correctly? I am using a hot air gun though but it feels like playing with lego while wearing boxing gloves.

I am very close to throw the board into the bin and wait until I can order a board that is fully populated
Really, it just takes experience. If you have never done this before, don't expect to get it on the first try, or the 10th try. This takes lots of practice. Get some broke electronics to practice on with throw away parts and boards until you get your technique down. Using high quality solder and flux is a must to be able to get this to make proper contact. Having a quality temperature controlled soldering station is also a must.
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Re: ZombieVerter VCU Support

Post by mpgMike »

There are many YouTube tutorials on soldering SMT parts, here's one:



You can look in the right side bar for more when you get to YouTube for more ideas.
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Re: ZombieVerter VCU Support

Post by MattsAwesomeStuff »

Damien has offered an easy "just make it work" solution in the past: take it to a cell phone repair place. Pay them to do it. They're used to soldering tiny bits of electronics.

A vehicle project is a bit large of a first step to begin learning SMT soldering on, especially if you're easily frustrated or struggle with patience. It's not for everyone.
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Re: ZombieVerter VCU Support

Post by collin80 »

PaulHeystee wrote: Tue Nov 23, 2021 8:47 pm Does anybody have a suggestion how to solder this chip on the board correctly? I am using a hot air gun though but it feels like playing with lego while wearing boxing gloves.

I am very close to throw the board into the bin and wait until I can order a board that is fully populated
Yes, it can be very tough at first. As others have said, there are a few things that really help:

1. You need a good soldering station. It will probably cost a fair bit of money, especially if it is a heat plate, hot air, and soldering iron station. It's worth it if you plan to do a lot of soldering. But, it can be as cheap as an automotive heat gun if you're feeling adventurous. Those will melt solder as well as setting everything and anything on fire and warping the board. Heating a board too unevenly really can warp it. That's why they make heat plate units where you clamp or set your board down on the plate and preheat the whole thing up to like 80C then do your work.

2. You want quality solder. I know you're in the EU but if you can use leaded solder, DO IT. Non-leaded solder is the DEVIL. SATAN in metal form. It flows like crap, it makes tin whiskers, it doesn't wet the parts as well. It's evil. Evil I tell you. Lead based solder is 10x easier to work with. There is no comparison. The EU member states should all be slapped. Every single person who authorized lead free solder should be hit hard with a halibut.

3. Don't cheap out on flux. Get good flux too. Also, invest in good desoldering braid. If you make a mess you need to clean it up. This is especially true when starting out. It's easy to make a big mess of solder everywhere.

I don't have a ZombieVerter board but that chip looks to only have pads underneath and nothing you can get to from the outside - you know, like legs on the outside as some chips have. So, you do basically have to hot air place it on the board (or use an IR lamp). The first thing is to get that chip off the board. Then, clean off the underside of the chip and the board with flux and desoldering braid. Now, the easiest approach is to pre-tin the pads on the board with solder. Now they should all be bulged up a little and shiny. Flux them again, flux the chip. Using tweezers, set the chip where you want it. Bonus points if you used tacky flux so that the flux holds the chip where you want it. You may be able to hold the chip in place with tweezers by pressing on the top lightly. Now, heat that chip up. It's best if you have a hot air nozzle that directs the heat to the outside of the chip instead of right at it but mostly you probably won't have that sort of attachment. So, just work heat around the chip and surrounding board a bit. The goal is for the solder underneath to turn liquid and suck the chip into place. Obviously what you do not want is for the hot air station to be blowing so hard that it moves the chip around. If you have the chip placed accurately enough and you used enough flux and not too much solder then it basically magically seals itself right to the board in the right spot. It really looks like a magic trick when it happens. Otherwise, maybe it attaches itself one pin diagonal or does some other insanely fun trick for you. That's when it's tempting to throw it through the nearest window. It can be tough at first but it is possible.

But, this does bring up an interesting point that everyone should consider - it is not a sure bet that anyone can successfully solder the components down on their board. If it is at all in question you're better off getting fully assembled boards. I'm way more of a software developer than hardware guy. I still have a really hard time soldering things and sometimes I fail at it. I basically order boards as fully assembled as I can even though I have a fancy soldering station and lots of tools. I'm just not that great at it. I tip my hat to Damien and other people who seem to be able to solder without making an ungodly mess.
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Re: ZombieVerter VCU Support

Post by Jack Bauer »

As I have said in videos and on here multiple times if you are not proficient at this type of soldering then lookup a phone/laptop repair place in your locality. Bring the board, parts and the info from the wiki. I know of others here who have done this successfully.
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Re: ZombieVerter VCU Support

Post by EV_Builder »

Jack Bauer wrote: Wed Nov 24, 2021 8:51 am As I have said in videos and on here multiple times if you are not proficient at this type of soldering then lookup a phone/laptop repair place in your locality. Bring the board, parts and the info from the wiki. I know of others here who have done this successfully.
Yeah indeed. The local TV and Radio repair shop does this for ya in a blink of an eye.

I bought this stuf works pretty good. It's like the magic paste which becomes tin when applied heat.

https://www.ebay.nl/itm/MECHANIC-FLUX-E ... 638-7840-0
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Re: ZombieVerter VCU Support

Post by PaulHeystee »

Thanks Collin80 for your detailed input, certainly useful.

Damian is right, however, these repair-shops are very rare here in NL, the 'repair' shops here collect the faulty phones and ship them off to a central workshop, there they do standard stuff like changing screens etc.

I will see if I can find a local computer/electronics guy who can help me out if I fail again.
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