Mitsubishi outlander charger and DC:DC

[tom91]

I got the charger connected to a Prius battery, sitting at 150v.

The system still only pulls on the evse for one second before dropping the evse, when I send the 285 message with b6.

Probally because you have too low a DC voltage. The inverters have a cut off of around 200V.

[Dilbert]

Ok I'll try charge the pack via a big resistor.

I can understand the charger not wanting to charge the pack, but I didn't think it would drop out the evse.

I currently have nothing connected to the proxy signal as that normally goes to the phev ecu. As far as I know the evse does not read the proximity signal, it is just a few resistors in the j1772 handle

[arber333]

Hi

Does anyone need Mitsubishi Outlander front inverter? It is PN 9410A095 with dual motor port as well as AC HV connector.
I am willing to part it for 120€. Interested?

I managed to negotiate another shipment, this time i will get correct rear inverter.

A

[arber333]

I started the Motor inverter control thread here...
viewtopic.php?f=9&t=682

[Dilbert]

I've successfully got the Outlander charger to charge the prius battery

I needed to get the battery voltage up closer to 200V, before the charger would keep the EVSE contactor pulled in all of the time. I had to be a little creative to get some current into the battery and bring up the voltage so the charger would not fault out.

I could then command the charge current by using the 0x286 message. For anyone who is interested I've attached a python script which I used with the KVASER CAN tool to send the frames.

So overall, i'm quite happy, can now design something to detect when the handle is attached via the proximity signal and power up the charger. When the charger powers up if I can see the pilot duty I will be able to request that it starts charging.

I can't get the charger to start a second cycle without powering it on/off, so i'm not sure if its faulted out by how i'm stoping the cycle, or it's just part of the code that once it does the charge cycle it won't do it a second time. In my python script which is very much hacked together on the garage floor, i requested that the charger go back to 0 current before dropping the EVSE out, but didn't seem to allow me to start a second charge. I need to review the logs from the car again.

One other thing I learned by accident, i used my 2kw office heater as the pre-charge resistor, and i started a charge cycle with the heater in the circuit. I commanded 2Amps and when i looked down at the meter i had 2A in the battery and the charger output was up over 400V So it looks like this charger will possibly be able to charge higher voltage packs.

My plan is to use the above setup to test the DC:DC Converter next week. There doesn't seem to be any output control for the DC:DC, which is controlled via an enable pin.

Very happy with the above, these chargers are using in a range of PHEVs, so should give a cheap charging and DC solution. It will also easily fit where the spare wheel goes and the AC input cable is long enough that it will go as far as the petrol cap on any car.




0x389 Frame Sent from charger:-
Byte 0 = Battery Voltage (as seen by the charger), needs to be scaled x 2, so can represent up to 255*2V; used to monitor battery during charge
Byte 1 = Charger supply voltage, no scaling needed
Byte 5-6 = Charger Supply Current x 100

0x38A Frame Sent from charger:-
Byte 0 = temp x 2?
Byte 1 = temp x 2?
Byte 3 = EVSE Control Duty Cycle (granny cable ~26 = 26%)


0x285 Frame Sent to the charger, to control EVSE
Byte 2 = 0xb6 pulls in the EVSE

0x286 Frame Sent to charger to control charging:
Byte 0-1 = Voltage setpoint (seems to be ignored, but i'm wondering is there a constant voltage mode which uses this)
Byte 2 = Current in amps x 10

[tom91]

Did you try giving it a higher current request to see when it would stop increasing the output voltage?

[Dilbert]

Did you try giving it a higher current request to see when it would stop increasing the output voltage?

My prius battery isn't in good condition so i didn't want to pass too many amps into it, so I was just using 2-3A targets. But when I charged the battery via the pre-charge (heater), the charger output went to 420V. So it went above the 370V ceiling (3700) which was being commanded.

I'm speculating that there is a constant current mode for the bulk of the charge and then a constant voltage mode that would be used at the end of the charge cycle and during cell balancing etc... but i could be wrong about this.

[tom91]

True, be good to review a can log of a car doing a full charge on the AC charger.

[pemtek]

Doesn't work until about 210v from memory.

Phil

[pemtek]

Oh and yes it charges to 420v

You should be able to stop and start the charge by sending 0 current then it will start again no problem

As you have probably noticed the 370v set in 0x286 has no effect that I can find whatever. In fact if you send 1v it will still charge, however if you set those bytes to 0 it won't charge.

Phil

[Dilbert]

I actually didn't try that. I was dropping out the evse and trying to get it to pull in agsin. In this scenario it wants the power cycled on the charger.

[arber333]

I actually didn't try that. I was dropping out the evse and trying to get it to pull in agsin. In this scenario it wants the power cycled on the charger.

Hm... do you happen to know which plug to buy to connect to charger LV connector? I hope it is not unobtanium...

tnx

[Dilbert]

The lv connector is used on a couple of Japanese models, I'll try dig out the part number. If you zoom in on my picture you'll see I used lots of 2 way connectors pushed into the pins, they work fine. There's not too many wires.

[Dilbert]

I actually didn't try that. I was dropping out the evse and trying to get it to pull in agsin. In this scenario it wants the power cycled on the charger.

Hm... do you happen to know which plug to buy to connect to charger LV connector? I hope it is not unobtanium...

tnx

I found what I believe to be to lv connector part number, the inverter connector is marked 12716.

The Toyota part number for the inverter side is 90980-12716.

The mating connector on the vehicle side, which we need to connect to the inverter is 90980-12326

I imagine a Toyota dealer can supply with pins.

[arber333]

The mating connector on the vehicle side, which we need to connect to the inverter is 90980-12326
I imagine a Toyota dealer can supply with pins.

I found 13 pin connector Sumimoto 6189-1092 right in the UK.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sumitomo-618 ... SwoaNeIKtf

[arber333]

Does anyone know which P/N connector for LV signals does rear inverter use? I have the motor resolver connector - RH side one. But i dont have the LH one. Wiring says D-211. Does anyone have parts catalog?
Here are some pics...

[Dilbert]

I've developed some firmware to control the charger over CAN from an arduino due. I've only tested this with my CAN tool, i hope to test it with the charger and the prius battery over the weekend. But it might be of use to someone.

The Ardino Due reads in the EVSE proximity signal on A0, requires a 1K2 pull up resistor to 3V3. I have some status LEDs which show the status of the proximity input and charger. Also, a push-button is used to start and stop charging. Currently, i'm only commanding a couple of amps from the charger and stopping charge at 230V.

[Dilbert]

Tested the due charger control code up above, I had the prox values flipped, once I sorted that it worked fine. Will post updated code later.

I also tested the DC to DC converter, once the DC to DC control pin goes high the DC to DC will start charging the main battery to 14.5v

Not a bad unit overall, readily available and will fit in a spare wheel well of a conversion.

If anyone knows of an affordable battery pack let me know

[arber333]

Tested the due charger control code up above, I had the prox values flipped, once I sorted that it worked fine. Will post updated code later.

I also tested the DC to DC converter, once the DC to DC control pin goes high the DC to DC will start charging the main battery to 14.5v

Not a bad unit overall, readily available and will fit in a spare wheel well of a conversion.

If anyone knows of an affordable battery pack let me know

I am impressed, thank you!
So you just connect charger to 350Vdc and connect 12V control pin and it will provide AUX battery power? Hm... and if i want 14V not 14.5V? Is there an option to reduce this a bit?

I have a VW Passat battery pack here on the workshop floor which is providing power for my experiments. It is 9kWh 96S and works well up to 390Vdc.
Also my friend just got Mitsubishi Outlander pack 13kWh 96S and is satisfied by the small dimensions vis a vis Thundersky 100A cells he has now. Both packs were on par with 120€ per 1kW ratio which is ok for me.

[Dilbert]

I think you also need to power up the charger and connect the 12v battery feedback voltage. But yes it is that easy.

Seems to have fixed voltage out and no control or feedback via can. I guess it's like an alternator, fixed output.

[arber333]

What colour are your DCDC command lines?
Pin 4 DC SW (enables the DC:DC converter, seems to just target 14V when this is high) -- GRAY
Pin 7 Sense line for DC to DC converter --- GREEN
Pin 10 GND --- BLACK

I managed to pry the unit open to determine which side connector is positive...pics.

Also one pic of the N/L/PE connections.

[arber333]

I had no luck with DCDC starting.
When i connect pin 10 (GND) i get a little spark. But then if i connect enable and sense pins i get nothing.
Did i mess up my connection?

This is the connector on my charger side.
Your circuit is for the male one or the female on the side of the car?

[Dilbert]

Yes the DC:DC is pin 4, which i think it the grey wire.

Pin 7 & 8 connected to 12V VBAT (one powers the charger the other is the sense line for the DC:DC
Pin 10 is ground.

Once these connections are made you should see data on the CAN bus.

Then bringing pin 4 high the DC:DC will start.

I obviously also connect a heavy-duty ground to the case of the charger and the output of the DC:DC is the black cable which i bring to the battery 12V.

[arber333]

Then bringing pin 4 high the DC:DC will start.

That did it! Thank you.
I got a good 8A from DCDC and battery jumped to 14.35V. I must say this is quite high, but it works for powering the car.
Anyone has any idea how much power can it provide?

EDIT: I lend my 12V 1kW load to a friend so i only have secondary load here and behold... 25A of 14.4Vdc goodness! That is like 360W easy.
Ill report back when i get 90A load here.

[RAS_666]

If anyone wanted a charger plug https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre ... 3467142995 I bought one of these and it does fit. The inverter ones are proving slightly more tricky plus none of the scrappy seem willing to chop one off to sell!