arturk wrote: ↑Tue Jun 16, 2020 6:42 am
Very little info online. I am sharing what I found. Any suggestions?
Because it doesn't have a torque converter like a normal auto box, the level is probably less critical to get right.
Usually you drain as much out as you can, making a note of how much came out, then put that much back in of fresh fluid.
Be aware that the fluid volume changes based on temperature. So once filled you should operate the car (back wheels on stands if possible) until the box is up to temperature then check the level again. But make sure the car is off the stands and level again first. Or put it on stands front and back in the first place.
jcwright45 wrote: ↑Mon Jun 15, 2020 5:31 pm
Any ideas on how the centre of this comes out? I recall Damian’s video shows him wielding it to a bit is square tube.
It may be too late now. But do you happen to have the part number for that piece? My gearbox didn't come with it.
Setting the fluid level is easy. On the sump there are two plugs. One is a drain plug the other is the level plug. Remove the level plug and fill until fluid comes out the level plug. Then run the pump. Rinse and repeat. Your done.
As Damian says above ^^. However I found that if you have external transmission coolers, and these are mounted higher than the fill port, you need to move them to below the level of the fill port while filling. Otherwise the pump sucks the oil pan dry when you start it (the fluid is moved into the coolers under pressure).
For this reason, my transmission is horribly overfilled while at rest, when the pump powers up, it returns to a normal level.
xp677 wrote: ↑Tue Jun 16, 2020 8:51 pm
As Damian says above ^^. However I found that if you have external transmission coolers, and these are mounted higher than the fill port, you need to move them to below the level of the fill port while filling. Otherwise the pump sucks the oil pan dry when you start it (the fluid is moved into the coolers under pressure).
For this reason, my transmission is horribly overfilled while at rest, when the pump powers up, it returns to a normal level.
Or you could fill it while the oil pump is running. The OEM lines appear to drop down below the fill level, so it shouldn't terribly overfill it. Most OEM automatics are designed to be checked "running".
Thanks for all suggestions on checking ATF level. Turns out I was 3 quarts low. I guess scrap yard drained most of the ATF before shipping it.
I also came across those nice pictures. I noticed a lot of people are asking about some of those details. Those are GS600H but same procedure applies to GS450H.
Best to use Toyota Genuine ATF WS.
Specified amount of fluid is 5.0 liters (5.3 US qts, 4.4 Imp. qts).
Attachments
1998 Jaguar XJR, GS450h drivetrain, 48kWh/96s BMW battery
slow67 wrote: ↑Wed Jun 17, 2020 12:55 am
Or you could fill it while the oil pump is running. The OEM lines appear to drop down below the fill level, so it shouldn't terribly overfill it. Most OEM automatics are designed to be checked "running".
You can't fill it through the fill port while running, as the fill port is also one of the transmission cooler lines.
You could probably fill it through the check port if you had the correct hose (long, thin, and hook shaped).
celeron55 wrote: ↑Sat May 23, 2020 6:23 pm
Funnily enough the input shaft spline (GS4500H) perfectly matches the input yoke spline of my original driveshaft (that I won't be using
Interesting. This would be useful for locking the input shaft. What is that input yoke from? Part number?
Bassmobile wrote: ↑Thu Jun 18, 2020 8:42 pm
Interesting. This would be useful for locking the input shaft. What is that input yoke from? Part number?
From an european spec Toyota Previa. I think that spline is very common among larger Toyotas as I believe it also matches the Previa's clutch.
This is worth investigation. Anything branded LEXUS comes with a premium pricetag. Finding cheaper source of spline couplers is certainly productive. Part numbers would be helpful.
The original GS flywheel/flexplate is often available for less than the price of a clutch disc. As it is not a wear item, there is no demand for replacements.
slow67 wrote: ↑Wed Jun 17, 2020 12:55 am
Or you could fill it while the oil pump is running. The OEM lines appear to drop down below the fill level, so it shouldn't terribly overfill it. Most OEM automatics are designed to be checked "running".
You can't fill it through the fill port while running, as the fill port is also one of the transmission cooler lines.
You could probably fill it through the check port if you had the correct hose (long, thin, and hook shaped).
There is a torx plug near the "fill port" (which is really a cooler line port) that also goes into the pan. You could do it in the car with a pump and hose. This port is vertical (on top of the boss near the top cooler port).
G'day, registered 5min ago, I want to connect g/box to front diff in old 2002 Hilux, this would require output shaft to 99% of time to run
in reverse direction of rotation. Does anybody perceive a problem re- the way the helical gears are cut or something i haven't considered.
I don't think the oil pump or main motors will mind?
Diffs don't like being run in reverse. The helical gears tend to load the pinion gear opposite to the way the bearings are set up. ie. Your pinion gear will try to climb out of the diff housing rather than being pulled in to ride against the bearings. The diff will last for awhile but eventually fail.
@Dale - you mean just running the transmission backwards, correct?
Motors won't know or care, oil pump is electric so won't care either. Not sure about the internal gearing though - as @sfk said helical gears are problematic, and I haven't taken one apart. Maybe one of the transmission owners can enlighten us?
Eh, wait, wasn't the question about running the original front diff at the front, and just the transmission running in reverse due to there being no transfer case? i.e. the transmission would be pointing at the front, instead of pointing at the back of the truck.
So what you're both saying is that the transmission would be fine in this case.
Pretty much -- maybe the only concern is the high/low brakes which do something to the planetary gears.
I only answered this question though, not being a GS expert:
Dale B wrote: ↑Tue Aug 25, 2020 6:03 am
I don't think the oil pump or main motors will mind?
If it ends up being a problem, maybe the transmission input shaft would be usable with the other end locked. Again, I'm not a GS expert.
Yes, extreme thanks. Considering prius too, would be lighter and would be happy with 50kw going too front tyres. Have turbo diesel for rear. Also keeping transfer case. My hilux has what Toyota call ADD system which makes all kind combinations possible ( I'm probably preaching to the converted).
Bit of LPG and medium sized battery pack. Battery would also be handy for electric supercharger for diesel . Thanks again, luv to contribute thoughts, successes and dollars in the future.
Isaac96 wrote: ↑Tue Aug 25, 2020 7:11 pm
If it ends up being a problem, maybe the transmission input shaft would be usable with the other end locked. Again, I'm not a GS expert.
This would place an unusually high load on the power-split device, since the larger motor is now on the other side of it. The gearing is probably less favourable for the PSD as well.
Depending on the rotation direction, this could also play havoc with the mechanical oil pump.
Have a look at the teardown documents for the LS600h box and make up your own mind.
I thought the transmission had an electric oil pump? Power split is definitely a problem, I didn't think of that.
Checked earlier in the thread, there is an electric and a mechanical. I retract my backwards-transmission suggestion.
It has both pumps. They are linked through check valves. No idea what is on the input side of them, running the mechanical pump backwards may interfere with the electric pump. Or may just destroy the mechanical pump. Or it may be fine.
The pump doesn't look too hard to remove, however.
xp677 wrote: ↑Fri Aug 28, 2020 3:07 pm
It has both pumps. They are linked through check valves. No idea what is on the input side of them, running the mechanical pump backwards may interfere with the electric pump. Or may just destroy the mechanical pump. Or it may be fine.
The pump doesn't look too hard to remove, however.
I was going to say I’d remove it. it will try to draw backwards through the check valve all the time, and will lose lubrication quickly and fail.
There is a 2013 gs450h coming up for salvage auction near me. Has anyone here had a go at hacking the inverters in these? According to internet spare parts sights the inverters part no. is G92A030020. Transmission looks the same as older models. I guess if I couldn't take over the inverters brain I could use a Camry or Avalon inverter instead...
wovenrovings wrote: ↑Sun Sep 06, 2020 7:19 am
There is a 2013 gs450h coming up for salvage auction near me. Has anyone here had a go at hacking the inverters in these?
Please read through the forum, wiki and review the SuperYacht ('BEXUS') project;
Edit: a search on the wiki says the G92A030020 is from a GS350H not a GS450H
This is a personal post and I disclaim all responsibility for any loss or damage which any person may suffer from reliance on the information and material in this post or any opinion, conclusion or recommendation in the information and material.
