Prius Gen 3 Inverter Logic Board Support Thread

[Bigpie]

I've also struggled with the bootloader on Atmega, only have Uno for ISP or USBTinyASP. I've got the nuclear option at the ready with a new chip with the bootloader already on it if all else fails.

Does the ICE programmer use the 12v reset to set the fuses?

[konstantin8818]

OK, I've got a little package from RS components(they send to Belarus ) Few connectors and AMPSEAL 35 way socket.
I've soldered it to V1C adapter plate. One thing I didn't get is "notch position". It makes no sense. IDC plug always have first contact at a bottom no matter how you flip it. So all you need is to connect that ribbon cable to IDC plug so it remain straight, not twisted. And IDC connector being at the bottom and AMPSEAL 35 way connector at the top

Anyway, there is no room for adapter plate with connectors attached inside the inverter. So anyone who willing to use AMPSEAL connector and install it correctly(so inverter case remain sealed) will need to use adapter plate housing, with outward offset. Because flush housing is "no-go" as well.
Also IDC header on the control board is placed with little offset to the right if you watch at it from outside.

To prevent damage of ribbon cable, I've added this right offset to a new housing design.
The only thing you need to do is to grind off two angles 5x5mm on the right side of the adapter plate

This is needed to be able to place some silicone gasket to maintain sealing.

As before, design must be checked, but I've got no 3D printer.
STL model attached in ZIP file:

gen3 plate V1С.zip

(128.67 KiB) Downloaded 72 times

[bobby_come_lately]

This looks really nice but I'm confused! The one I knocked up with a second plate behind it fits perfectly? And you don't need to cut the adaptor plate. You could add some ridges/valleys to that for extra sealing but other than that I don't see the advantage of this design?

[konstantin8818]

This looks really nice but I'm confused! The one I knocked up with a second plate behind it fits perfectly? And you don't need to cut the adaptor plate. You could add some ridges/valleys to that for extra sealing but other than that I don't see the advantage of this design?

I've tried to fit it in the middle and ribbon cable was bending sideways, maybe it is because it is too short, if you make it longer and set so it form a loop, it won't bend. As I've said earlier I have got no 3d printer to be 100% sure about this designs.

[Bigpie]

konstantin, have you tried adding a bootloader to the ATMEGA yet? Any chance you could document your steps if you do?

[konstantin8818]

konstantin, have you tried adding a bootloader to the ATMEGA yet? Any chance you could document your steps if you do?

Not yet, is there firmware for charger available already? I'm not interested in charging for now, I need to make motor control work at first. Haven't got much free time for now, need to work to be able to buy lithium

[Bigpie]

There's some software by celeron555 for charging, but I've used it as a base for some software to buck/boost as required to enable the DC DC without resistor mod, but I'm struggling with getting a boot loader on there to test it, I only have a 72v pack while I'm playing around.

[bobby_come_lately]

This looks really nice but I'm confused! The one I knocked up with a second plate behind it fits perfectly? And you don't need to cut the adaptor plate. You could add some ridges/valleys to that for extra sealing but other than that I don't see the advantage of this design?

I've tried to fit it in the middle and ribbon cable was bending sideways, maybe it is because it is too short, if you make it longer and set so it form a loop, it won't bend. As I've said earlier I have got no 3d printer to be 100% sure about this designs.

Gotcha - my ribbon cable is perhaps too long but does loop nicely so doesn't foul the inside.

[konstantin8818]

What is normal current consumption for the board itself without any load? That smoked board consumes 1,7A from 11V power supply. It also makes audible whining noise with its capacitors. Is it normal?

[Jack Bauer]

Yep. at 11v it will consume a bit more that at say 14v due to switching psus. Remember you are also running the Toyota gate drive power supplies. when pwm comes on expect about 2amps.

[konstantin8818]

Thank you! Now I know why my little lipo battery suddenly died when I tried to start PWM.
Anyway, I've tested the smoked board and the smoked Inverter with two motors at once, and surprisingly they worked. Expectedly mg1 span weaker then mg2

[Jack Bauer]

Sweet. Seems even blowing up the inverter around it wasnt enough to kill a JLCPCB board:)

[konstantin8818]

Sweet. Seems even blowing up the inverter around it wasnt enough to kill a JLCPCB board:)

Honestly, that wasn't smoke that scared me the most, but this moment did:

[TheSilverBuick]

LoL, same! Awesome to see it working.

[PatrykS]

Good shout @PatrykS - it is indeed 16MHz in software and 8MHz crystal. Will tweak and test again.

Weird that it worked fine in the test with the same error though.

When error is the same in Arduino and ESP they communicate well with each other, but with half the speed - 250kbps. Problem arises when one of them is trying to communicate with some real 500kbps device

EDIT: That did it! Thank you.

Great

[PatrykS]

Question about flashing the bootloader on the Atmega328P. Just hooked up an Arduino Uno to the board via the ICSP pins and tried burning a bootloader but got an error of 'Invalid Device Signature'.

Do I need to add a specific board profile or should the Nano/Duemilanove board setting (ones with a 328P) work?

Ta.

Did you wired UNO correctly? Are you able to burn bootloader on another UNO with it?
https://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/ArduinoISP

Nano setting should work.

I'm using USBasp with AVRdude and with Arduino IDE - it's cheap and works great.

[bobby_come_lately]

Question about flashing the bootloader on the Atmega328P. Just hooked up an Arduino Uno to the board via the ICSP pins and tried burning a bootloader but got an error of 'Invalid Device Signature'.

Do I need to add a specific board profile or should the Nano/Duemilanove board setting (ones with a 328P) work?

Ta.

Did you wired UNO correctly? Are you able to burn bootloader on another UNO with it?
https://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/ArduinoISP

Nano setting should work.

I'm using USBasp with AVRdude and with Arduino IDE - it's cheap and works great.

Good shout - I'll test it with another one tomorrow. Not done this for a while.

[Bigpie]

I failed to get the boot loader installed and took the nuclear option, bought an atmega with the bootloader already installed and now just programming it over serial.

If someone could add instructions to the wiki when they've got the steps to get the bootloader on, that would be great for future users.

[RetroZero]

Thank you! Now I know why my little lipo battery suddenly died when I tried to start PWM.
Anyway, I've tested the smoked board and the smoked Inverter with two motors at once, and surprisingly they worked. Expectedly mg1 span weaker then mg2

Nice going konstantin8818!!!!

[bobby_come_lately]

So I tested my Uno with other Arduinos and didn't have any issues uploading bootloader. At the very least I was getting a signature back when tested with some dodgy Pro Mini knockoffs.

With the board though I just get a 0x000000 signature. Normally I'd think this was bad connections but I've tested continuity from the Arduino pins to the board.

Any suggestions short of @Bigpie's nuclear 328-replacement option welcome!

[Bigpie]

If all else fails, I can bring out the big guns on yours too.

I've been playing with the buck boost. I've bucked from DC bus 2 to DC bus 1 by PWM on pin 10. I'm assuming to boost from 2 to 1 it isn't as simple as PWM on pin 9 instead?

[Dylan Witt]

any way of sending me a parameter for the Toyota gen three inverter running a Toyota trans axle assembly? like lexus gs450h, is600h? just something i can use to drive the wheels of my conversion? im stuck in a position where i have basically wanted to take a torch to the entire car, rewired the inverter and Mazda wiring to control the inverter, ignition, +12 volt, grounds, +5volts, throttle, brake switch. leaving out cruise for now, even ordered 8 five volt relays to send power to my battery contractors. i am just asking for parameters someone has already written and tested, something i can use to fine tune to my car.. Prius gen three inverter and toyota avalon hybrid transaxle, same as the camry hybrid transaxle up to 2012 and avalon up to 2015

[Bigpie]

The params I'm using are below. They are for the FOC firmware and for a 5 pole pair perm mag motor. It spins nicely on the bench.

[Dylan Witt]

I will try it, it has been raining and storming here for a few days, tropical storm has finally reached me in the mountains, I’ll try your parameters as soon as I get a few minutes of clear weather

[Dylan Witt]

Current Sensors, GEN-Two, Gen Three, IS300H inverters. i was looking around at the gen Two inverter, Gen Three and is300h inverter, the current sensors on the Gen-Two are on Two and Three Phase, Gen-Three is One and Three phase, is300h are Two and Three Phase. its interesting that they change the phase sensors like that. just for anyone that wasnt for sure about the sensors