Tesla Large Drive Unit Support Thread
Re: Tesla Large Drive Unit Support Thread
Good evening!
I just received my drop in board the other day and finally got to testing it last night but ran into some issues I am hoping I could get some help with. I was testing using 100v with the contactors and precharge system hooked up and in place. When I turned the ignition the negative contactor would come on, then a few seconds later the precharge would click on and stay on. Once I turned the key to the "start" position the positive contactor would come on, and then immediately shutoff along with the negative one. I was getting an overcurrent error after clicking it on.
I found this thread : viewtopic.php?f=10&t=76&p=26873&hilit ... ENT#p26873 with a similar issue and the issue was resolved with a firmware upgrade. I updated to the latest firmware and lost all my parameters, then found this thread viewtopic.php?f=7&t=1647&p=27804#p27804 where they had the same issue and fixed it by downgrading back to 4.97.
I downgraded back to 4.97 It uploaded, and the status bar went to 100%, but did not change anything so all my parameters are still missing.
I pulled the drive unit out and the second led on the board is not flashing. I don't see anything physically wrong with the board, I inspected all the components and solder joints and everything looks good.
I was also wondering if anyone had any insight into the LEDs on the phases, when I first turn on the 12v, all 3 boards blink for a millisecond, then a couple seconds later they each flash once again but in sequential order (1 then 2 then 3). Could this indicate something may be bad with those boards?
Thank you!
I just received my drop in board the other day and finally got to testing it last night but ran into some issues I am hoping I could get some help with. I was testing using 100v with the contactors and precharge system hooked up and in place. When I turned the ignition the negative contactor would come on, then a few seconds later the precharge would click on and stay on. Once I turned the key to the "start" position the positive contactor would come on, and then immediately shutoff along with the negative one. I was getting an overcurrent error after clicking it on.
I found this thread : viewtopic.php?f=10&t=76&p=26873&hilit ... ENT#p26873 with a similar issue and the issue was resolved with a firmware upgrade. I updated to the latest firmware and lost all my parameters, then found this thread viewtopic.php?f=7&t=1647&p=27804#p27804 where they had the same issue and fixed it by downgrading back to 4.97.
I downgraded back to 4.97 It uploaded, and the status bar went to 100%, but did not change anything so all my parameters are still missing.
I pulled the drive unit out and the second led on the board is not flashing. I don't see anything physically wrong with the board, I inspected all the components and solder joints and everything looks good.
I was also wondering if anyone had any insight into the LEDs on the phases, when I first turn on the 12v, all 3 boards blink for a millisecond, then a couple seconds later they each flash once again but in sequential order (1 then 2 then 3). Could this indicate something may be bad with those boards?
Thank you!
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Re: Tesla Large Drive Unit Support Thread
the negative contactor is usually between 12V ignition and Vehicle ground. It can only shutoff after the 12V is switched off. Are you sure that your 12V supply is sufficient?Skudak wrote: ↑Wed Jun 02, 2021 12:33 am Good evening!
I just received my drop in board the other day and finally got to testing it last night but ran into some issues I am hoping I could get some help with. I was testing using 100v with the contactors and precharge system hooked up and in place. When I turned the ignition the negative contactor would come on, then a few seconds later the precharge would click on and stay on. Once I turned the key to the "start" position the positive contactor would come on, and then immediately shutoff along with the negative one. I was getting an overcurrent error after clicking it on.
I found this thread : viewtopic.php?f=10&t=76&p=26873&hilit ... ENT#p26873 with a similar issue and the issue was resolved with a firmware upgrade. I updated to the latest firmware and lost all my parameters, then found this thread viewtopic.php?f=7&t=1647&p=27804#p27804 where they had the same issue and fixed it by downgrading back to 4.97.
I downgraded back to 4.97 It uploaded, and the status bar went to 100%, but did not change anything so all my parameters are still missing.
I pulled the drive unit out and the second led on the board is not flashing. I don't see anything physically wrong with the board, I inspected all the components and solder joints and everything looks good.
I was also wondering if anyone had any insight into the LEDs on the phases, when I first turn on the 12v, all 3 boards blink for a millisecond, then a couple seconds later they each flash once again but in sequential order (1 then 2 then 3). Could this indicate something may be bad with those boards?
Thank you!
Re: Tesla Large Drive Unit Support Thread
You're right, sorry, I meant the pre-charge and the positive click off, the negative does stay on with the 12v switched power.muehlpower wrote: ↑Wed Jun 02, 2021 7:31 am
the negative contactor is usually between 12V ignition and Vehicle ground. It can only shutoff after the 12V is switched off. Are you sure that your 12V supply is sufficient?
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Re: Tesla Large Drive Unit Support Thread
Unfortunately diagnostic info is a bit coarse, as all fault signals are tied together. So manually check IC10 pins 1, 2, 4, 5, 6, 11. They must all read high (about 5V)
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Re: Tesla Large Drive Unit Support Thread
Just checked and they all read high:
1- 4.8v
2- 4.8v
4- 4.8v
5- 5.0v
6-5.0v
11-5.0v
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Re: Tesla Large Drive Unit Support Thread
Try reuploading 4.97 again. Took me two tries before it successfully uploaded.Skudak wrote: ↑Wed Jun 02, 2021 12:33 am Good evening!
I just received my drop in board the other day and finally got to testing it last night but ran into some issues I am hoping I could get some help with. I was testing using 100v with the contactors and precharge system hooked up and in place. When I turned the ignition the negative contactor would come on, then a few seconds later the precharge would click on and stay on. Once I turned the key to the "start" position the positive contactor would come on, and then immediately shutoff along with the negative one. I was getting an overcurrent error after clicking it on.
I found this thread : viewtopic.php?f=10&t=76&p=26873&hilit ... ENT#p26873 with a similar issue and the issue was resolved with a firmware upgrade. I updated to the latest firmware and lost all my parameters, then found this thread viewtopic.php?f=7&t=1647&p=27804#p27804 where they had the same issue and fixed it by downgrading back to 4.97.
I downgraded back to 4.97 It uploaded, and the status bar went to 100%, but did not change anything so all my parameters are still missing.
I pulled the drive unit out and the second led on the board is not flashing. I don't see anything physically wrong with the board, I inspected all the components and solder joints and everything looks good.
I was also wondering if anyone had any insight into the LEDs on the phases, when I first turn on the 12v, all 3 boards blink for a millisecond, then a couple seconds later they each flash once again but in sequential order (1 then 2 then 3). Could this indicate something may be bad with those boards?
Thank you!
If at first you don't succeed, buy a bigger hammer.
1940 Chevrolet w/ Tesla LDU - "Shocking Chevy" - Completed 2023 Hot Rod Drag Week
1940 Chevrolet w/ Tesla LDU - "Shocking Chevy" - Completed 2023 Hot Rod Drag Week
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Re: Tesla Large Drive Unit Support Thread
Ok good. What voltage do you see on the test points next to R45 and below R58? Those are the current sensor signals.
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Re: Tesla Large Drive Unit Support Thread
I've tried a few times, even after letting it sit overnight. I tried 4.96 as well just to see if it would do anythingP.S.Mangelsdorf wrote: ↑Wed Jun 02, 2021 1:34 pm
Try reuploading 4.97 again. Took me two tries before it successfully uploaded.
I am getting .6v between the two points. I should note that I don't have any high voltage going to the motor at all, I have the motor dropped out and just the 23 pin connected.
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Re: Tesla Large Drive Unit Support Thread
Ah sorry I meant between the test points and GND. But those only make sense with the current sensors (ISENSE) connected. Not sure why your board does not come back up. Which exact file are you uploading?
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Re: Tesla Large Drive Unit Support Thread
I have the ISENSE connected to the pcb, just don't have the high voltage leads from the car connected to the inverter.
The point near R45 is measuring 1.6v, the point near C55 is measuring 2.1V
I am uploading the stm32_sine.bin file from here: https://github.com/jsphuebner/stm32-sin ... ag/v4.97.R
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Re: Tesla Large Drive Unit Support Thread
1.6V is good, 2.1V might point towards a dodgy connection between sensor and board. The file is also correct. The LED flashed initially before attempting to upgrade?
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Re: Tesla Large Drive Unit Support Thread
Yes when I first installed it the light was flashing correctly. Once in the car it also worked correctly and showed parameters/ turned on and off the contactors.
Re: Tesla Large Drive Unit Support Thread
Tried uploading again today ands till no luck, also tried without anything else plugged into the board. Not sure what to do next, I have a header I could solder on and try loading it via STLink and see if that does the trick?
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Re: Tesla Large Drive Unit Support Thread
Yes, try that. Really not sure what the deal is. Since you can still upload firmware the MCU itself seems ok
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Re: Tesla Large Drive Unit Support Thread
I attached a header and my ST link. It first was able to connect, then it abruptly lost connection and cannot reconnect, here's the report I got:
In a strange turn of events, I had a board made by JLC as well that I couldn't get working, that board just started working fine after I flashed it via ST Link as a test (previously it would connect, say it successfully loaded, then not function). So I at least have one working board. Jon Volk was kind enough to spend a couple hours walking me through setting up all my parameters tonight and was able to get my wheels spinning.
Testing on another board I have I can access and program successfully, so my STLink is working fine, I just can't get connected to this again now. I've tried rebooting my PC as well.17:20:12 : STM32CubeProgrammer API v2.7.0
17:20:22 : ST-LINK SN : 48FF6B066685535734150787
17:20:22 : ST-LINK FW : V2J29S7
17:20:22 : Board : --
17:20:22 : Voltage : 1.94V
17:20:22 : SWD freq : 4000 KHz
17:20:22 : Connect mode: Normal
17:20:22 : Reset mode : Software reset
17:20:22 : Device ID : 0x410
17:20:22 : Revision ID : Rev X
17:20:23 : UPLOADING OPTION BYTES DATA ...
17:20:23 : Bank : 0x00
17:20:23 : Address : 0x4002201c
17:20:23 : Size : 8 Bytes
17:20:23 : Bank : 0x01
17:20:23 : Address : 0x1ffff800
17:20:23 : Size : 16 Bytes
17:20:23 : UPLOADING ...
17:20:23 : Size : 1024 Bytes
17:20:23 : Address : 0x8000000
17:20:23 : Read progress:
17:20:23 : Data read successfully
17:20:23 : Time elapsed during the read operation is: 00:00:00.008
17:20:37 : Read File: C:\Users\Kyle Duquette\Desktop\Skudak Rennsport\Tesla E30\Motor PCB\4.97R Firmware\stm32_sine.bin
17:20:37 : Number of segments: 1
17:20:37 : segment[0]: address= 0x0, size= 0xA17C
17:20:44 : Error: Unable to get core ID
17:20:44 : Error: Unable to get core ID
17:20:44 : Warning: Connection to device 0x410 is lost
17:20:45 : Disconnected from device.
17:20:56 : ST-LINK SN : 48FF6B066685535734150787
17:20:56 : ST-LINK FW : V2J29S7
17:20:56 : Board : --
17:20:56 : Voltage : 1.93V
17:20:56 : Error: ST-LINK error (DEV_TARGET_CMD_ERR)
17:21:08 : ST-LINK SN : 48FF6B066685535734150787
17:21:08 : ST-LINK FW : V2J29S7
17:21:08 : Board : --
17:21:08 : Voltage : 1.90V
17:21:08 : Error: No STM32 target found!
17:21:22 : ST-LINK SN : 48FF6B066685535734150787
17:21:22 : ST-LINK FW : V2J29S7
17:21:22 : Board : --
17:21:22 : Voltage : 1.84V
17:21:22 : Error: No STM32 target found!
In a strange turn of events, I had a board made by JLC as well that I couldn't get working, that board just started working fine after I flashed it via ST Link as a test (previously it would connect, say it successfully loaded, then not function). So I at least have one working board. Jon Volk was kind enough to spend a couple hours walking me through setting up all my parameters tonight and was able to get my wheels spinning.
Re: Tesla Large Drive Unit Support Thread
Board voltage 1.8 is likely a problem. Should be reading 3.3.
Formerly 92 E30 BMW Cabrio with Tesla power
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Re: Tesla Large Drive Unit Support Thread
How could I forget. Thou shall measure voltages.
12V input (both anode and cathode of D2), 5V regulated (C2), 3v3 regulated (C15)
12V input (both anode and cathode of D2), 5V regulated (C2), 3v3 regulated (C15)
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Re: Tesla Large Drive Unit Support Thread
Hello
Got my motor going after the big igbt blowout.
Tested and spinns really good, just tested up to 300rpm
New battery bank this time, 72v agm @200ah
Just one problem, I think my encoder is bad, constantly warns, (warn - encoder) Nice Square wave but not 100% in synk with each other, have you got any saved scopecapture?
A and B should be displaced 5v - 0v every other time? Picture of my case, just powered by 5vdc and gnd.
Got my motor going after the big igbt blowout.
Tested and spinns really good, just tested up to 300rpm
New battery bank this time, 72v agm @200ah
Just one problem, I think my encoder is bad, constantly warns, (warn - encoder) Nice Square wave but not 100% in synk with each other, have you got any saved scopecapture?
A and B should be displaced 5v - 0v every other time? Picture of my case, just powered by 5vdc and gnd.
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Re: Tesla Large Drive Unit Support Thread
The picture you labeled "optimal?" isn't. What you're show is A and A_BAR (Inverse of A). Dual channel encoders do not look like inverse image of each other. They look like the same signal A and B but displaced in time. Whether B leads or lags A tells you which direction it is spinning.
I shamelessly swiped this image from the internet:
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Re: Tesla Large Drive Unit Support Thread
Also if you get ENCODER warning you have set it so "Single" mode where AB recommended for Tesla motor. That said, single mode can mask out swapped encoder wires, so changing to AB might get you a rattling motor which you can then fix by swapping A and B wires.
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Re: Tesla Large Drive Unit Support Thread
Okay, then my encoder is probably correct, it is displaced different in time regarding which direction its turning.collin80 wrote: ↑Thu Jun 10, 2021 12:42 amThe picture you labeled "optimal?" isn't. What you're show is A and A_BAR (Inverse of A). Dual channel encoders do not look like inverse image of each other. They look like the same signal A and B but displaced in time. Whether B leads or lags A tells you which direction it is spinning.
I shamelessly swiped this image from the internet:
I will test that this afternoon, when i revealed encmode the sensor was in single mode but i thought I've read that it then was in AB mode?
Tried both modes and it runs very smooth up to 300rpm.
When I repaired my inverter I swapped out all control electronics, can this have something to do with, the new igbt driver? My igbt failed previously, resulting in a shorted igbt driver circuit.
Or should that have left a new fault code?
"Warn - encoder" Does this just refer to encoder fault? I know that some codes can be triggered by multiple sources.
/Edit: I have attached a parameter file if someone want to dig in =)
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Re: Tesla Large Drive Unit Support Thread
I've kept searching for errors, Now I have managed to get encoder input measured on microprocessor.
I think my chip is bad, due to the good signal entering the ic.
Maybe replace ic or buy a new controller board
I think my chip is bad, due to the good signal entering the ic.
Maybe replace ic or buy a new controller board
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Re: Tesla Large Drive Unit Support Thread
I got my LDU spinning with 183V and the udcmin set to zero for testing. This is 1/2 of the 360V that will be installed in the car. Everything seems to be working fine. This was a huge milestone for me. I noticed that the unit take a long time to slow down once it starts spinning. This is good as it shows there is little friction in the drive train. I want to set up regen braking. How can I set it up so regen starts as soon as you take your foot off the accelerator or does it need a signal from the brake pedal to start regen?
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Re: Tesla Large Drive Unit Support Thread
Good news. Your build is a Porsche Boxster right? I’ve spent some time tweaking my parameters/ regen specific to the car (although our battery packs are different). I’ll download my file for you today - might be a good starting point.canadasconvert wrote: ↑Thu Jun 17, 2021 5:34 am I got my LDU spinning with 183V and the udcmin set to zero for testing. This is 1/2 of the 360V that will be installed in the car. Everything seems to be working fine. This was a huge milestone for me. I noticed that the unit take a long time to slow down once it starts spinning. This is good as it shows there is little friction in the drive train. I want to set up regen braking. How can I set it up so regen starts as soon as you take your foot off the accelerator or does it need a signal from the brake pedal to start regen?
I’d also suggest running Jon Volk’s tweaked firmware. It’s as close to perfect as I’ve experienced since running the car for the past 18 months.