As we only have one temp sensor input do we use the rotor or stator temp?

Even more confusing is this page shows the connectors the other way round to what I expected with the block with 6 wires for the temp and the block with 4 wires for the rotor position

Found it!
The two temp sensors go to the stator and rotor (at the bearing)

Excellent thanks 👌 So I've been prodding the connectors and I've come up with this to go in tandem with the above pinout. The grey block from the resolver Hans has already dealt with but I'll add some details too. Working on the 12 pin connector I've taken pin 1 as the one by the dots. Pins 1-6 go t...

Does anyone have the pinout of the 12 pin from the resolver please?
I have looked through and can only see Hans has detailed the motor temp wires.

EV_Builder wrote: ↑Thu Jun 23, 2022 11:14 am No problem offcourse. If you use glue or other stuff you might consider also the use of an extra sheet of alloy at the back modelled to the shape of the case rivets & glue etc.

But if it holds it holds..

Thanks
I'll let you all know how I get on

A little off topic but would this scope be up to the job in hand?
I don't want to spend too much and this popped up locally

I have a confession, please don't judge 😅 I ended up glueing it with liquid metal I have never Tig welded before and my mig welding is questionable. I figure it's not structural and when bolted together will be strong enough. I have made two templates for the lower coolant area and will get some Ali...

I'm pretty much there with the physical side of the inverter, I'll be popping a video up soon with the cut lines etc
Thought you might like to see it all together

Do you still need parts?
You can check out my channel for a strip down of the KLE

I couldn't see any markings showing info about the material

Once I'm happy with everything I'll pop some cut lines and dimensions up here so you can all learn from my mistakes

I like the idea of blanking plates and elbows to join the coolant up but might look to glue the blanking plates in place

What do you mean with not to the DC side of things? The capacitors are there for the DC bus... The idea is that when the current flows and suddenly needs to stop it wants to go somewhere...by having those capacitors it will absorb that energy... Sorry for the confusion, I meant the DC to DC has bee...

If anyone's interested there is a new vid on my channel of my attempts to shorten the inverter housing. Still some bits to work out, how to get the coolant to flow correctly, how to prevent coolant from going everywhere. I tried the aluminium brazing sticks but the heat dissipated too quickly to mel...

Are those filter capacitors absolutely necessary?
Or is there a smaller alternative I could use as I can't fit it in and it no longer needs to connect to the DC side of things

mjc506 wrote: ↑Tue May 10, 2022 1:30 pm With SimpBMS, you control the contactors, charging voltage and minimum voltage. You can set it to run the battery down to 0V if you really wanted to... (There's probably not all that much energy available at the low end, but charging higher might get you a bit of additional range)

Thank you

Sorry to jump in but it is related, can you use Simp BMS to increase the range?
BMW set a buffer of 80% I presume for longevity but as my project will only be used sparingly I am less worried about getting 150,000 miles out of a pack.
Would this just involve charging to a higher voltage?
Thanks

Thanks Xavier

Another question regarding the Simp BMS system and the i3 modules.
It's well known that to improve longevity BMW had a charging buffer, could I increase my range by decreasing the buffer at the risk of reducing the longevity (not too worried as it will be an occasionally used car)

Hi folks
I'm working in making the inverter package fit in the Mini, I'll have some progress up soon
A quick question with this HV filter assembly, do I only need to keep the two circled connectors?
Can I get rid of the rest?
Tia

Just speaking to an i3 owner who's trying to hack the motor to get more performance, he reckons the motor is good for 12,000 rpm, anyone got any thoughts on this?

I've got some videos up on YouTube about the i3, you get to see me remove the motor and rex then separate them.
You might find it interesting.

https://youtube.com/c/MiniLifeCrisis

I have one of these for sale if anyone wants to make me an offer

damian wrote: ↑Wed Apr 06, 2022 9:06 pm That means that I can use the Open Inverter with the BMW i3 motor? Are there also other Open Projects, for example BMS?

Personally I am going for a SimpBMS system I think, have you looked at the BMS threads on here?

The 12-pin connector from the resolver / motor temp that connects to the BMW brainboard, is the ERNI MiniBridge Koshiri Messerleiste 12-pin, geared, SMT, Art-No. 294920 and it is available for purchase mounted on a handy adapter card. https://www.erni-x-press.com/en/artikel/kit/169219.html https://...

Just saw it and will comment the same here. Why not cut it up and close with alloy sheet. I think it will be TIG weldable. If you want to explore the option check the housing for the alloy markings. With this in mind what is the plan for the HV filter? Is the HV filter needed? How is the top plate ...