It all works in principle but the light bulb limits current too much. Take it out, set fslipspnt=1 and gradually increase ampnom from 30% in 10% steps until you get movement. Then increase fslipspnt.

I will update the wiki once this is tested again.

For my own info, is the fact that this test ...

I would have done as per Damien and Johus FOC video - see around 30 min point and see if you get the same results.
I think 3 amp/12v is too low for your HV circuit. Use a 12v car battery if you can, along with light bulb for protection.

I don't see any actual values in VCDS relating to the maintenance or pilot lines, and I have yet to find anything relating to them in the CAN messages. Their voltages do not seem standard either. But in a normal oem setup, either of these signals would flag a fault and cancel any charging. I'm ...

I have the stock set-up with the flap locking mechanism and LED push buttons. If I reset to factory settings, the lock fault is erased, until I activate it again. I have a type 2 charger plug connected so normally there is no over run of the locking actuator.
I've looped the HV connectors for A/C ...

Two other items have come to my attention that might need spoofing
1 - the PILOT control signal
2 - the MAINTENANCE plug signal

Both signals give me values between 8vdc & 10vdc if I create a short circuit using myself (resistance) between each wire & the battery positive pole. This could be a pwm ...

I was talking about the light bulb on your High Voltage circuit. Do you have a power source connected to your inverter, with a light bulb in series in the circuit? It is your fuse if there is a dead short -the light glows brighter the more there is a short circuit.

Starting new thread as too many models being discussed all at the same time.
I however hope to learn from those topics to build up info to get this charger documented. There is a good chance that this charger is not identicle to the one Damien got working, or there's another issue due to him not ...

What was the light bulb that is connected in series on your High Voltage circuit doing? Does it light up brightly?

I updated the wiki instructions. I think there is another, thanks to you looking at it with different eyes
Full Boost should be around 37000.

The pins 11 and 12 receive 12v via a switch to power each pin according to the direction selected. They are not connected directly to 12v. I will have to document this in the wiki.

That is awesome news!
The best way to help is to look at the wiki and suggest how to update it so as not to have some one else making the same mistake.
Did I understand you provided 12v to Pins 11 and 12?

The charge flap error has really been getting to me. I ordered a Porsche ref - 7P5915651 and openned it up. It is identicle to the charge flap actuator on the GTE looms, however it has a 4 pin connector, so cutting out the original actuator on GTE loom, & fitting a plug, the actuator can be replaced ...

Sorry, but it seems that without connecing the adaptor board to the inverter, the DESAT error blocks Manual Mode.
So unless some one knows how to "spoof" the DESAT error, I am not able to help with further initial testing..

As promised - a link for the WIKI for this setup - Waveshare ESP32S3 Pico (without SD Card option) using Arduino

1. go to https://github.com/jsphuebner/esp32-web-interface/blob/can-backend/doc/arduino2_with_CAN_installation_notes.md
Folow instructions to download the Web Interface files and open ...

I will test over the weekend and try to get ManualRun mode working without connecting to an inverter.

Thankyou @Bigpie & @manny for the final pointers ! Pins 16&17 are moved to 1&3, and on different boards.
This highlights again the need for up to date links & info "for dummies like myself". I'll put these findings with links into the wiki as it ties up with other threads.

Thanks for the reply. I'll check that out and report back.

This is where I took info.

"Hardware
The web interface has been initially designed to run on ESP32-WROOM-32E boards.
The connection to the inverter are on Pin16 (Rx line connect to inverter Tx line) and Pin17 (Tx line connect to inverter Rx line)."

So I will go and check if Esp32S3 dev are the ...

I went over the pins again, as it was really bugging me. There seems to have been goo splashes, and the circuit board looks to not be damaged. So replaced all 4 wires with proper automotive cables and pins. Connected up with the same Esp-Stm coms message. Could the fact that the adapter board has a ...

I found an original ESP8266 board. Long story. It's running 4.87R-sine on what I think is the original Web Interface.
I connected 12v to the adapter board.
Modified Udcgain & Udcofs to make the board think there is Udc - 5vdc
Put it in Default Forward mode & Put Inverter in Manual Mode.
OppMode ...

Oh well. I went to unsolder and replace the wires with proper automotive pins. Looks like I cooked one of the pinouts on the board! The 3.3V. I'll just bin it for all the time spent. Will order a new one

The jumpers are soldered into the board, but I could replace them if there's a doubt.
My issue at the moment is around connection between Esp & STM.
If there is doubt about the ESP board, is there a "simple" way to say put the web interface on my arduino due and connect that to my adapter board?

DSC_2849.JPG
Thanks Johu. I'm on a windows computer and just about figured Arduino, and I have a Due dev board.
I tried python & commands through windows , but that is also not an easy beginner setup.
I connected the Esp32 to the 3.3v pins for the original ESP8266 on prius adapter board. The ...

Yes, unfortunate or fortunately, my esp8266 & adapter board were so out of date, i decided to upgrade. Now I'm "half bricked"
viewtopic.php?p=82069#p82069

I would love to test as well, but I'm still battling with User Interface...