I'm using an Isabellenhütte IVT-S for now, but I'm expecting the pack voltage and/or SOC will eventually come from the BMS (Orion)...

Excellent, thanks for that pointer. I'm looking at a stepper motor solution for my (mechanical) rev counter. This seems like the way to go...

I made a thing: https://openinverter.org/wiki/State_of_Charge_meter_using_a_Teensy_4.0 IMG_0891 (1).jpeg It's a prototype CAN bus state-of-charge meter based on a Teensy 4.0. It displays a state-of-charge or voltage value according the integer number sent over CAN bus to the configured address(es) I...

Glad the GitHub is useful. I really need to add some more stuff to it...
My plan is to build the CANbus instruments using Teensy 3.2 boards. Not the cheapest solution, but they are tiny, easy to use and have on-board CAN. Space is going to be tight in that little ammeter

The main change to my design is that the "power" and "range" displays will now be CANbus instruments. The VCU will send motor power messages over CANbus to a (modified) analogue rev counter containing a stepper motor and the battery management system will send the state of charge...

Not much progress lately. Still playing around with CANbus...

PS: if you send me the Arduino build output in a message, I can take a look. It's hard to decipher from a screenshot...

Anyway, it's much better if you can build from source because then it's possible to understand how it works

Clean build should work. I'm keen to understand why it's not working for you so I can get the Wiki instructions right.
What files have you got in libraries/can_common ?

Good point.
I guess that's Windows only? Not something I have ready access to...

That's good to know - I'll add a note to the Wiki...

From the wiki page you linked to: "Rename the file to remove "-master" or any other postfixes. This is important!"

I hate it when that happens

Have you had a look at hub motors? I don't know whether they are any good, but something like this might work well in a small bike: https://www.amazon.co.uk/NBPOWER-Electric-Bicycle-Brushless-Non-gear/dp/B07Z98YYP3 Yes, hub motors would be easier (and give more room for batteries in the frame) but ...

Nice project!

Have you had a look at hub motors? I don't know whether they are any good, but something like this might work well in a small bike:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/NBPOWER-Electr ... B07Z98YYP3

Interesting! If you get any extra info, please amend/add it to the wiki https://openinverter.org/wiki/Batteries#OEM_modules The info I found below is for a completely different 16s / 60V module: https://evshop.eu/en/batteries/150-mitsubishi-outlander-phev-battery-module.html I guess your modules are...

Yep, last time I made a board it was paper tape, dunked in ferric chloride then hand-drilled. I had no idea that SMT boards were accessible to mere mortals. This changes *everything*

My mind is blown by JLCPCB.

Literally: I just load those files in, click "SMT assembly", pay around $70 and I get 5x assembled boards in the post a few days later?
Is it really that simple?? That is incredible.

Very nice! I may well use this for my bike project.

Ah, see you've got me thinking now. I reckon I could get a 40kWh Jag pack (2.4l/kWh) in the battery space on my Ampera...

Cheap Prius 4 inverter:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-TOYO ... 4048586692

Nice project, Sam!
Which Curtis inverter were you using? Would be interested to know how you got on with it...

Thanks to Damien's pin-out data, I was able to power the board up. Which is a nice start. The board pulls about 8 watts. Prius 4 pinout.png There are no blinkenlights, which is always a minor disappointment. CAN traffic appears almost immediately, which I was able to capture with SavvyCAN. I don't k...

I think the VCU approach would make a lot of sense for controlling a Toyota MGU.
I'm not sure it will work for my application, where I want to do something very different with the inverter hardware...

This is fantastic info. Thank you Landswellsong!

I found a bit more data on the Volt battery. This test suggests max pack voltage is 398.4V, min is 288V for the full 16.6kW capacity:
https://www.energy.gov/sites/prod/files ... t_3929.pdf

The Volt battery is 390V when "full", which is 87% SOC according to the NHTSA fire report (see p.100) http://www.nhtsa.gov/staticfiles/nvs/pd ... eports.pdf

I think GM don't go any lower than 330V in normal use (i.e. for 10kWh of usable capacity)