PEDR0 wrote: ↑Sat Jul 05, 2025 12:14 pm So we’re all in on the outlander
Rear motor, inverter, charger purchased.

Glad you bought the outlander motor I linked. I was getting the desire to buy it and I have no need for it!

Bigpie wrote: ↑Sat Jul 05, 2025 7:49 pm need to badly edit it together

Ever the perfectionist.

Give us V2L!

The zombieverter can control the outlander over CAN for 70kw, others here (Romale I think) have done an OI board swap for up to 110kw I think.

https://ebay.us/m/WiVxF0 if you're UK based then here's a cheap rear outlander motor.

Charger https://ebay.us/m/XmL2i6

And there's inverters going for around d £40-50 although might need to be checked for compatibility with zombieverter depending on year. Not sure if they're all compatible.

The leaf charger is massive and there are better options. The leaf "stack" can be separated into its individual components, but then you need to mess around with rerouting the HV connections.

Apologies I didnt realise that this part is an MQB rack also,
This is my efforts to understanding the rack.
https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6153
I'm fairly certain to get speed assist my rack (from a VW Transporter T6.1) only required ESP_21 to be played back which contained the ...

You'd be best sourcing a canlog from a vehicle that uses this rack or at least one using the same platform. Then reduce the messages down until you loose speed level assist to work out what can messages are required.

There is some information on on the can comms from the BMS on the open dbc I think.

The MG batteries are very cheap on ebay atm and plentiful.

johu wrote: ↑Thu Jun 26, 2025 8:07 pm Yeah it's outrageous how much they've come down! If you buy a palette of 36 it drops towards 50€.

Crikey! Now just to find a place for 36 panels....

400w panels for 60eur each is cheap, in the UK I think they're going for around £65 each new which is amazing. They're almost cheaper than fence panels... and much more productive!

I would not rely on aluminium tape for any automotive use tbh, my experience with it is not great and the adhesive that it uses not reliable. How about a proper air tightness tape? Or some vapour variable membrane, it closes up as humidity rises. Something like Pro Clima Intello or similar.

I'll let others comment on the safety, but if you do this I'd be interested in a similar setup if you're happy to sell one on? Thanks

My thoughts on the safety is it's probably fine. Provided you get good connection. The bolt will pull everything tight, so provided the faces are clean you should ...

What is the resistance between CAN H and CAN L? Is there anything else on the CAN circuit?

tom91 wrote: ↑Tue Jun 17, 2025 6:41 am Where you getting this info from? I do not believe this to be the case.

I vaguely remember one of Damiens videos on the stack mentioning something along the lines of this. May well be legacy information.

1. Yes zombie will work with the leaf stack over CAN
2. I think Orion would need to be setup using CAN mapping. If you use the Orion to send messages on the same IDs as SimpBMS this should work but might be worth double checking
3. Any accelerator that uses a potentiometer, preferably a dual pot ...

Probably useful to state your location

johu wrote: ↑Thu Jun 12, 2025 3:05 pm It's 14 kg, so 50€ for shipping.
No guarantees whatsoever, it has been sitting for years

Sounds good, can I get one of the Gen3 Prius inverters with the good EVBMW logic board.

Scrap that, I'll pass on this for now. I've got another plan for what I was looking to achieve. Thanks

I'd be interested in a inverter and OI/EVBMW board if any are still available and postage isn't too costly to the UK

I've ordered some replacement 5V regulators as I think a couple were broken. I've checked the voltage at the first resistor cell tap leg on one of he board that was giving incorrect readings on 3 cells and the voltage was correct all the way (3.85V).

I'll recheck the fets but I'm fairly certain ...

ok thanks, I'll check on the boards with the wrong readings, I'd half assumed as I have continuity from the cell tap input to the resistor legs that I should be good but will check voltages also, hopefully its just a dodgy soldering job, I'm 95% they were ok until I changed the header but I'm not ...

Potmin and Potmax need to be changed from defaults. Something like 165 and 1700 on potmin will be enough to get it working in single channel mode.
If you have selected Dual Channel then Potmin2 and Potmax2 should be approx doubled Potmin and Potmax but it seems hit and miss whether it will work ...

They have been spun on the bench with 60V but it's not clear at what power output. For those power levels you could probably use something a lot smaller and better optimised (HSG maybe?)

Dimensions and weights of the cells would be interesting for the wiki. Thanks

johu wrote: ↑Sun Jun 08, 2025 6:13 am You're not gonna get around reading this thread: viewtopic.php?t=5665

I have read through it before, I don't remember seeing the same problem I was having but will revisit. Apologies if I'd missed something.