Mostly from just testing the machine, for example, spinning the motor by hand and reading the feedback, changing the ambinet temperature, the suopply voltage, just things to try and narrow down the data.

Can you share a bit of knowledge how did you figure all of this out? I want to decipher BTH data but have no idea where to begin. All i can guess is this is miso/mosi serial data communication. Is buying saleae logic analyzer the first step on my journey, or is there something else / a better ...

I used a window motor from an Audi A4 (cheapest on eBay) connected to where the GS's shift lever used to fit. The PRNDL switch on the side of the gearbox provides feedback telling the motor when to stop turning.

The Audi A4 unit has two relays built in, one for up and one for down, cross wired to ...

When the inverter coolant pump failed on my 2007 GS450h, the inverter temperatures reached 120C on Techstream and the car was still drivable.

That inverter is not from a 3rd Gen GS, might be from a newer model?

I stuck a 40ohm unit from an Outlander PHEV on mine and monitored the current, it peaked at 17A and dropped to a few amps in just a few seconds, that seemed fine for me, so I went with that.

It's essentially an RC circuit, the capacitor value in the inverter is known, and the capacity of your ...

VR sensor, no polarity.

It's shown on the wiring diagrams from Toyota. Both sides of this solenoid are exposed in the connector. Probably to reduce interference as this is PWM controlled.

Shielded twisted pair for the 4 data lines, whatever you like for the rest.

It's a CAN bus, there's a 120 ohm termination resistor in the inverter, and your controller will have another within it, bringing the total resistance down to 60 ohms are required by the spec.

Did anyone ever figure out the CAN messages for these? I've got one as well, IIRC the current method has to just let them time out and go into a failsafe mode, which gives basic control, but you lose functions such as variable assist.

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We had to write a 500 words essay regarding safety to justify this purchase to our accounting ...

The outer braid is needed on any VFD-driven motor cables to reduce EMI. There should be an uninterrupted faraday cage from beginning to end, the inverter and transmission casing, along with this braid, fulfil that.

See here: https://library.e.abb.com/public/a8dc0a0e66d66118c12575d6002fd22d ...

Bassmobile wrote: ↑Fri Jul 14, 2023 7:55 pm I would love to see info and photos on what you did xp677. Sounds awesome!

Sorry, I didn't take any photos.

Uppertown wrote: ↑Mon Jul 10, 2023 9:10 am Do I need to unsolder these pins to remove the DC-dc PCB? image.png ( stolen picture is of a Camry converter but I think the 450h is similar/identical) If I do remove it are you still collecting them?

Yes desolder. Not actively seeking converter guts but will take if they're going spare!

Gregski wrote: ↑Mon Jul 10, 2023 4:43 am thanks so in my case I am using the BMW 530e BMW hybrid pack which is 351 volts, so does that mean I can't gut mine ?

If you need to ask, then you are definitely not using the converter so you don't need it.

Yep, only £7 new from Toyota

All of the stuff in the top can come out if you're not using the converter. As far as I know, nobody is using the converter. The converter would be useful for someone running a higher voltage pack, who wants to power 320-350v things like a DCDC converter, AC pump, or heater.

The wiring harness ...

You can always buy terminals of the correct size, push them on, then fill the space with epoxy, then add your own connectors. This isn't uncommon in motorsport, where they want to use OEM parts, but want to keep their connectors consistent, or don't have access to the OEM connectors.

I just stumbled on this while searching for another topic. This falls within my field of work, so I might be able to shed some light on the matter.

Emergency stop systems should be designed such that the user must not need to consider the repercussions of using the emergency stop function. That is ...

Nice writeup. The easiest option is to buy a pump controller from a breaker which includes that connector and a pigtail (not uncommon as dismantlers often just cut the cables to parts). The wires can then be extended.

50A fuse and relay, I believe.

There's also generic ones like this:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/353534023512

Not sure if they're strong enough, though. They are a bit squishy. Maybe the biggest ones would be good.

land rover defender engine mounts, super cheap on ebay.

The inverter puts out the same voltage as you feed into it. You don't need 650V, it's perfectly usable on 320V ish,

Pretty sure its limited by mg1 and mg1 max rpm was 14000rpm. It was in my original code from 2020.