This is an odd one, but I thought someone on this forum might have a use for it. This is the AEM VCU200 that is used to control a Tesla motor. I did a bone-headed thing and sent 400v to the HVIL wires, immediately frying it. You can see the arc marks in the picture. I can't tell if it only fried the...

Selling a v4a board + the labeled wiring harness that includes the encoder wire. This came out of my car and operated fine when removed. Pair this up with Jon's spare Tesla LDU for sale on here and you've got a complete ready to go package. $200 shipped to CONUS. IMG_2515.jpg IMG_2514.jpeg IMG_2518....

jon volk wrote: ↑Sat Jun 18, 2022 1:00 pm You have to click save parameters to flash button to retain them.

God. This is embarrassing. Thanks!

I'm starting to have an issue now that I'm putting more test miles on the car. Two quick questions: 1. How are the parameters that I hand key "saved"? Are the stored on flash that doesn't require power to retain them or, does the board need a constant need 12v even when the car is off to s...

Here is the wiring diagram that I have operational in my car. I did as you said, I grounded both 11 and 22 to the chassis. (Open for objections by others)

DUDEZ. Just got back from an extended test drive and I was literally shaking with excitement when I walked in. The car is so smooth now, zero jitters, no weird power cuts, no ocurlim, linear pedal feel. I made the following updates: Updated to 5.14.R-sine Loaded Jon's settings from the Parameters si...

Okay I think I have my marching orders. I'm going to fix some parameters, specifically slipstart, UDCgain, and I'll stare/compare others. Quick question. In a post from @Boxster EV I saw him make a recommendation to lower the occurlim when doing testing to avoid damage to the drive unit. Is this som...

Thanks for the input. Here is my update: I update to firmware: 5.14.R-sine I have my POT2 settings at 4095 I confirmed coolant is flowing through the hoses to/from the drive unit No coolant leaks visible After the firmware update when I attempted to drive. When I apply throttle in fwd/rev the car ji...

Looking for some suggestions on next steps for troubleshooting. I have an issue that is becoming progressively worse. I now can't drive my car a full block without getting an overcurrent error. Here is the sequence of events as best as I can piece them together. I've been redoing the entire car so d...

Does this mean someone is going to start refurbishing drive units?

A follow-up on my tmphs question for anyone who searches later with the same question/issue. I drove this morning for a longer period and the temperature continued to climb. It would jump rapidly when I gave it throttle and eventually built up to 70C with ~15 blocks of driving. As a test I decided t...

Thanks @Boxster EV. I definitely feel coolant flowing through the pipes. I'll do a longer test drive to see if the temperature keeps creeping up. My big concern is that the coolant plates have very narrow passageways which is probably choking the flow. I may end up with either two pumps (one pushing...

Question about temperatures in the LDU. I'm proceeding cautiously with my initial road tests to make sure my coolant setup is sufficient. Also, as an American I have to constantly convert C to F... I drove the car around the block ~20mph and the temperature for tmphs quickly ramps up. At it's peak I...

Long while since my last post but progress has been steady.

Obligatory first test drive!

Make note that somewhere between bench testing and wiring the car... R/D got switched and I nearly took out my tool chests.

More progress on the exterior of the battery box.

I used 4 car batteries as well. I also echo Boxster EVs comment. My encoder plug wasn't fully contacting and it was causing issues. You can test to see if it's getting a signal by plotting some values and turning it by hand. (sorry I don't recall the specifics but they are further up in the thread).

Starting the fiberglass top cover for the battery box.

Alright, plan revised. I actually thought using busbars was the preferred approach going in, but making this out of cabling is much much easier and forgiving. I'm waiting on more lugs in cabling from EVWest but I have it mocked up enough now to push forward. I also consulted with my EE friend (I'm a...

Boxster EV wrote: ↑Tue Jul 13, 2021 2:07 pm
Another thought: would it be simpler/safer to use 70mm2 HV cables clipped to the frame in rubber mounts rather having those larger angled bus bars?

Good points on the risk of the rigid bus bars coming loose. It's just as easy to make these out of cabling. I think I will go that route.

I cut and fit all my busbars today and my son and I started to cut and crimp all the connecting wires. The busbars were way easier to make than I expected. What does everyone insulate their busbars with? I saw reference to plasti-dip at some point but didn't know if there were easier solutions. IMG_...

Your battery box is looking great. I totally underestimated the amount of time I would spend on my battery box. It has taken quite a while to get it right.

Looking for feedback on my wiring/bus bar, contactor, fuse, and manual shutoff arrangement. The masking tape represents wires or bus bars. The plan is to have the pack split in half by a contactor that is actuated when the key is turned + a manual shutoff switch that is external to the battery pack ...

k, the surface finish on this isn't great but it's the underside of the battery box. I'm more using this to experiment with how I can give the top cover a cool look. Quick sand and cleanup with the DA IMG_8936.jpeg I wanted to paint it flat black but the only single-stage flat black at the PPG store...

Okay making progress on the exterior of the battery box. Aside from making fiberglass in the lab I don't really have much experience so I'm learning as I go. This is the bottom so I didn't spend a ton of time on aesthetics, when I work on the top of the box that will be visible I'll spend quite a bi...

Man your HVJB wiring is super clean. Nicely done.